Member
I wouldn't want the fixed mobile wheels facing the same direction you push/pull the work piece. If resin or wood sap makes it difficult to push a work piece you could end up pushing the machine.
It's a big "Your mileage may vary" as far as upgrades at time of purchase.
Try to get 25% off accessories at the time of purchase and see if this will apply towards the Byrd head which is something I would have considered if I didn't purchase my A3-31 from craigslist.
Contributor
Hi Chris, on my mobile base you can't push the machine even though the wheel direction is as you stated. The weight of the machine on the two fixed feet prevents the machine from moving. This is the same as the factory wheel situation on the B3 for example.......Regards, Rod.Originally Posted by Chris Tsutsui
Member
My turn to weigh in on the A3-31. I bought it all, two extension tables, three brackets to mount the tables, digital wheel, spiral head, mobility kit. I almost forgot,included a cloth apron. I think I made a good decision. Haven't really used it that much.
I am concerned about some end snipe in jointer mode. In addition, the spiral head produces a good finish.... a very good finish. However, I've seen perfect finishes from blade jointers and blade planers.
Member
Hi Bob,
You probably need a minor adjustment to the tables to bring them into alignment -- this will eliminate snipe when jointing and it is a pretty easy adjustment to make -- just follow the instructions in the manual and have some patience. You should be able to dial in the machine so that you have zero snipe jointing and planing. One of the techs in DE is very good and can also walk you through the procedure.
Scot
Member
One thing I don't remember if it was in the manual or not, but if you measure the tables to be aligned without tightening the tables down, then you tighten the tables down and they're still in the same alignment, then you're good to go.
Maybe it's my uneven polished concrete floor and dusty or hardened rubber feet on my A3-31, but I can push it without using the lifting bar. It does take a little bit of effort though. I can't really move the K3W without the lifting bar.
Member
Scot and Chris thanks for the helpful replies.
Scot, Brian from DE tech may have given me the problem when he came up to make general adjustments several months after I purchased the machine. In any event, I don't remeber having any snipe prior to his adjustments. I was getting tapered pieces prior to his visit. Brian saw the snipe as he was leaving and thought it was the wood samples we used. I have been adjusting the outfeed table turn knob up to match closer the top of the cutterhead. It still depends how tight I lock down the table handles whether or not I get end snipe.
Chris, you may be on to something on coplaning the two tables unlocked and then tightened down. I really don't want to go through a major table realignment as I watched Brian do at my house. That was several hours, and as you see it still wasn't done
Contributor
Here's what that suggests.... On the non-hinge side of the table, the table rests on two bolt heads, and the table handle pulls the table down between those two heads. If one head is higher than the other, the table sits on just one head before the table handle is cinched down. When the handle is cinched down, it wracks the table to force it to rest on both bolt heads. That shifts the table edge near the cutter up or down, and you get snipe. The fix is that table realignment you'd rather not do. Doing your own table realignment isn't too bad. The last time I did mine, it took me an hour or so.
Member
Thanks Jamie
Member
Yes, I think that the adjustments needs to be done without locking them down and then when you lock them they should be in the same plane. A very small turn of the bolts on the side is all it takes to raise or lower the tables ever so slightly. I think that I spent a good 1-2 hours on my machine getting it dialed in for jointing and another 1-2 hours at least adjusting the planer tables. Everything has stayed in adjustment since, so it has been a one time process for me.
Scot
Contributor
I used a Oneway Multi-Gauge to help fine tune the tables. With the gauge on the outfeed table and the indicator on the infeed table, you can see the minute changes that occur when you loosen or tighten the table bolts. You can also see if the settings change when you lock down the table. If you have a dial indicator lying around, you could easily make this gauge, but I find the Oneway gauge very useful for other setups.
Member
Hey Sean,
I tried to contact you through a PM but your inbox is full. I realize this is quite an old thread and hate to revive it but I wanted to get in touch with you to get your thoughts on your purchase if you don't mind. Thank you.
Member
I took a pragmatic approach for the mobile base and put four castors under a piece of sheet flooring and dropped the machine on it. I can't see any problem so far nor can I see it moving during use but I haven't hooked it up yet. If I find the base is not practical I have a Hammer lifting bar for my saw, a bit of steel rod and two wheels can't be that hard to find and I have a welder so I will fabricate the tow point.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
I have the non-digital hand wheel. I glued a nut to the center of it and use my battery drill with a socket and extension to move the bed up and down. Very fast and easy.
Member
To anyone looking at purchasing one of these machines, I was looking on their site, and noticed you can get a slot mortiser attachment for the planer. Think that would be a great add on.
Contributor
It is a great feature, I haven't purchased one because I have a hollow chisel mortiser, however I keep thinking about it.
Regards, Rod.
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