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Thread: Routing Raised Panel doors

  1. #1

    Cool Routing Raised Panel doors

    The bit for the raised panel is very large 3” The bit comes with 2 bearings a 1 ¼” and 5/8” When routing the panel I start with the end grain and go around the door(end grain, side, end grain, and side again). The end grain routes just fine and one of the sides routes fine also. The one side (I assume that I’m going against the grain) does not route clean and I get tear out on the that side. Since it is a large bit I use a slow speed and use the large bearing first then change to the smaller bearing for the final cut. The part of the door that I get tear out is on the edge so when I insert the door into the stile it is covered. Can anyone give me a tip on how to rout that one side without tear out. I would like a clean door and would not like it if the tear out means I have to start with a new panel.

    Thanks

    Scott

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Can you use an additional piece of wood as a backer when you run it through?

  3. #3
    The tear out is along the edge not at the end of the panel.

  4. #4
    If your talking about splintering on the edge of the panel, you might want to try a zero clearance fence. Using the bearings as a guide does not support the edge of the panel from being pulled outwards by the cutter. Having your workpiece against a fence will give the support needed to keep that edge in place.

  5. #5
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    Sorry, misinterpreted. Johnny's plan sounds like a winner.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Scott,

    What type of wood? also what brand bit are you using?
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  7. #7
    Jeff,

    The problem is splintering on the edge of the panel, and I do have a zero clearance fence with a profile insert for the bit. Only on one edge do I have this problem (I assume it is when I go against the grain) When I built my test door I used Pine and it worked well just a little tear out, but now using Ash for the door I get the tear out. Luckily when I assemble the door it covers the tear out, but in the future I'm afraid I may ruin a panel and have to start from scratch. The bit is from Summerfeld, part of the raised panel set.

    Scott

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Boston
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    Make multiple passes taking a small amount of material off each time. Also moving the piece slow helps some.

    I found the more I try to take the more tearout I get.

    Double check the speed of the router again. The link is a chart from Woodline. The right speed makes a huge difference.

    http://www.woodline.com/instructions/Speed-Chart.pdf

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    I'd suggest what Don said, or using a backerboard on that cut. I have had similar issues with red oak, I combat this with a backer board on the end cuts.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    North of Boston, MA
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    It certainly sounds like on the one side you are cutting "against the grain", resulting in tearout. Some woods, such as oak and ash, are especially susceptible due to their combination of hardness and coarse grain. I'd suggest taking more, lighter cuts by setting the fence to positions between the two bearing diameters. This will help by reducing the cutting force on the wood fibers and will usually also reduce the size of the tearout if one happens anyway. I would *not* advise "climb cutting", the common answer to tearout, since such a large bit puts a strong force on the panel and greatly increases the risk that it will be pulled out of control.

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