Question on Miter Saw Blades

[Chris Samuelson]

I need a blade for my compound miter saw, and I am looking at the diablo blades at home depot. They work great in my circular saw. Home Depot has the Ridgid TiN (also made by Freud) coated blades on clearance and they are now down to about the about the same price as the Diablos now. $59 for a Ridgid 96 tooth blade and $64 for the 80 tooth Diablo.

My question is that in reading many posts, seems like the 80 tooth is very popular. I understand the finer teeth give the smoother finish and less tearout, but is there a downside to more teeth?

I am using the saw for everything from basic chopping to crown moulding.

[John TenEyck]

My Bosch CMS came with only a 60 tooth blade, and I thought I'd have to change it in order to get smooth cuts w/o tearout on the back side. It proved me wrong. That blade cuts more than well enough for nearly any trim and furniture work I've used it for. So I think there's more to it than just the number of teeth, like how they're ground, and how much runout it has. Another very important consideration is to make sure the blade is designed for use with a CMS, that is, the angle of the teeth is no more than maybe +5 deg, so that it doesn't grab and want to pull itself into the board.

[Ron Kellison]

I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my slider and wouldn't change it out for any of the other blades I've used from HD, etc. The cost of a good blade is relatively minor compared to the cost of lumber, molding, etc. over the life of the blade. IMHO, good blades can be had from Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenyru, Infinity, Freud (not the Diablo) and Systematic. The high-end blades also usually have thicker carbide and can be resharpened numerous times. Personally I would get a 60-tooth blade for most cutting applications rather than an 80-tooth which is usually aimed at cutting veneered material, melamine, etc.

Regards,

Ron

[David Kumm]

The important feature for a sliding miter blade is a negative rake on the teeth. Most table saw blades are positive to keep the board down on the table. Conversely, the neg rake keeps the board down when the saw is above. Dave

[scott spencer]

The downside of having too many teeth is increased resistance, more heat, more tendency to burn, more bogging of the saw. More teeth doesn't always mean a finer cut with less tearout, but there is a tendency in that direction ....there are many other important parameters in play, so it really depends on the blade. 60T to 80T should be plenty.

[Larry Edgerton]

I tried a Diablo in my Hitachi 8 1/4" and was not impressed. The best blades I have found for the Hitachi are the 8 1/4"Hitachi blades. Less tearout and they stay sharp for a very long time. I have a Tenaru [spelling?] in my 10 Hitachi and 10 in Makita and will continue to use them, again great cuts and long wear.

[Gene Howe]

+1 for the Tenryu. All my saws, including the SCMS and the Skil worm drive use Tenryu. Never a disappointing cut and, as Larry said, long wear.

[Keith Harrell]

More teeth can cause problems when cutting thicker boards as the blade gullets will fill and cause the blade to bind. I like 60 or 80 teeth blades.

[Chris Samuelson]

I appreciate the recommendations!

[Jerry Marcantel]

It's really pretty simple. More teeth = more horsepower needed............. Jerry 9in Tucson)

[fRED mCnEILL]

I have a Makita slider and liked the blade that came with it. Then I got a Forrest Chopmaster and WOW. When cutting you can almost not hear any additional noise or change in pitch as it makes the cut. It is so smooth.

[Dan Rude]

I have the Ridgid TiN on my 10" old delta and love it. I use it all the time, the cuts are smooth with the only tear out due to my insert. At that it is only minor splintering and that is with 2x4's. I have a Systematic that I use if I'm duing a lot of framing lumber, but honestly I have'nt put it on in over a year.

[Randy Dutkiewicz]

I have always had excellent results with the Infinity blades. My RAS and CMS have the negative rake and it makes all the difference when using the right blade for the right tool. IMHO, Infinity makes a very good blade and they often have sales where buying in bundles can save you quite a bit over buying individually. Personally, I can't stand the Diablo blades and even though I do have one for my TS, I will only use it to saw up scrap wood to size.

[Jay Allen]

Another very important consideration is to make sure the blade is designed for use with a CMS, that is, the angle of the teeth is no more than maybe +5 deg, so that it doesn't grab and want to pull itself into the board.

I am not particularly a fan of this "theory". It would make sense for a radial arm saw where the blade is "climb cutting", so it would not "self-feed".....But with a SCMS you are pushing the blade into the cut, exactly the opposite, no self feeding at all.
I bought a "proper"(negative rake) SCMS type blade and I have never liked the way it performs.
I use a HATB for veneered material and solid wood, then I swap to a heavy bodied TCG for Melamine, particle board, MDF, and occasionally Corian.
This makes the sharp slicing points of the HATB last a lot longer between sharpenings, since the tiny points don't take well to the hard/abrasive materials. I really liked the Freud Avanti (Silver ICE) that I used to be able to get at my local Lowes. It was an 80 tooth HATB that cut butter smooth, but for some reason they are not available anymore?
Currently I am using a Bosch, I think it is called "Precision woodworker"? It's pretty good, the teeth are very large, to last through repeated sharpenings. This may not have no value to a guy who doesn't have them sharpened though. The smootheness to where you cannot even feel the cut is just not there like the Freud.
The triple chip that I have ben using lately is a Frued industrial series. It performs very well

[Mike Heidrick]

I bought a miter master forrest blade from a forum member. WOW! If you ever get the chance try one!