Help!

[mike vance828]

I'm working on a bath vanity made of sapele. I have tried numerous finishing approaches and been very disappointed. I have sanded back to bare wood 4 times.

What I want is a darker tone/stain with the grain filled. Think walnut. My experience has been to use oil based penetrating stains or gel stains. I plan to topcoat with ML Campbell Magnamax (solvent precat lacquer). I have had great results with this lacquer. I have a big kitchen remodel with bubinga up next and may use Campbell's Aqualente or Enduro WB.

Back to the sapele... I keep getting blotching. For the grain fill, I have tried both Timbermate jarra red, Behlen neutral (as is and tinted) and Crystalac (transparent). The Crystalac has been excellent with finishing padauk (really appraoched piano finish, easy to apply & sand). Everything has been a no go on the sapele. In its natural appearance, it's just too band for the granite top.

Note I have been trying Enduro's water based stains to attempt to get the dark, rich look. Whether I use a seal coat (shellac) or not, whether I stain before or after the filler, I get a final look that's "mottled" in random places. I tried to use oil base penetrating stain over the Behlen filler and it didn't blotch but the filler kept showing through (think antique white spots). Crystalac does not recommend staining over their filler (and I can attest to that). Even tinting the Behlen filler (water based), didn't get rid of the filler show through. The Timbermate seemed to give the best, but it is much more difficult to use (they claim you can stain with water or oil over the filler).

I'm leaning toward an oil stain over a washcoat of shellac, followed by a coat or two of shellac to ease sanding back. Then finish it with the lacquer.

Oh, I also tried to spray a toner coat of shellac and hand applied NGR dye but after filling, it blotched.

Any suggestions would be welcome. Was also wondering if anyone has used Moser's Grain Fill (transparent).

[Scott Holmes]

Sanding back to bare wood is not getting the old finish out of the wood pores; thus your blotchy results. Use a chemical stripper to remove old finish.

"Oh, I also tried to spray a toner coat of shellac and hand applied NGR dye but after filling, it blotched."

A toner is clear finish with color added. You applied a seal coat (shellac) then tried to wipe-on a dye. The dye should have been in the shellac to make it a toner or the dye should have been on raw wood. Again, you need to get all the old finish out of the wood pores for the dye to color evenly.

[Harvey Pascoe]

Sapele is a reversing grain wood despite the fact that it planes beautifully. The wood cells are very short and changes in cell size over the face of the board is likely what is causing your blotching. I have a big piece of figured sapele here in my shop which the vendor coated with shellac and it is very blotchy looking. I wouldn't dare try staining that wood.