Bosch 4100 compatibility with Forrest Thin Kerf blade

[Alexander Prikhodko]

Today was an exciting day for me; I picked up my first table saw!

After much deliberating and research I decided to go with the Bosch 4100 portable saw. Now I know this saw cannot compare to a full size cabinet saw in terms of accuracy and power, but space is a major premium in my small apartment, and the Bosch will give me an idea whether woodworking is something I want to pursue more seriously.

Well enough rambling. The question I have is whether Forrest Think Kerf blade (WW10407125) will work with my saw. The saw manual specifies that I should use a blade with at least 0.092 kerf width, and a plate (body) thickness of 0.088 or less. The Forrest blade has a kerf of 0.125 and plate thickness of 0.090. So it seems I am off by 0.002 for the body thickness. I read in a number of places that many people have successfully used Forrest Thin Kerf Blades with this saw.

So can I use this blade? Should I even bother with the thin kerf blades, or should I just get a regular Forrest blade? How about the use of the Forrest Blade Dampener, should I get one of those if I end-up with a thin kerf blade?

Thanks in advance.

[David Kumm]

Alex, the .125 is their full kerf blade. The thin kerf is in line with your specs. Dave

[Jim Neeley]

+1 on David's post. Also FWIW, I added a thin-kerf Forrest WWII with a blade damper to Ryobi BT-3000 I once had and itwas like getting a whole new saw. More power and very clean cuts.

I recommend the blade damper as the blade is much quieter with it in place. Keep an eye on it though for thick cuts (~2") though as there comes a point where the damper begines to protrude through the table top. At that point, remove it.

[scott spencer]

Congrats on the new saw....the Bosch is arguably the best of the portables. It sounds like you bought the full kerf blade, which will work but will be a littler tougher for your saw to spin in thicker materials. IMHO, the TK (WW10407100)would have been a better choice for your saw.

You shouldn't need a dampener on a saw with low runout, so I wouldn't suggest getting one unless there's an obvious vibration problem caused by runout. That's an expense that most saws won't benefit from, but the manufacture and seller definitely will.

[Alexander Prikhodko]

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond to my question. I got my blades confused; I meant to say that I was interested in purchasing the WW10407100 TK blade instead of the full kerf WW10407125. Based on the comments I received I was inspired to scour CraigsList for the WW10407100, and got very lucky in finding a blade and balancer for $60.

Hopefully everything should be here by next weekend, so I can start playing with my new toys. The first project is going to consist of building some shelves in the laundry room.

Here is a list of everything I ordered, or will be ordering:
· Table Saw
· Forrest TK blade and balancer
· Forrest King Dado
· Bosch dado insert
· Bosch rear out-feed table
· Gr-ripper
· Kreg Jig Jr R3
· Rockler Shelf Pinhole Jig and 1/4'' Bit Set

Did I miss anything?

[Neil Brooks]

The left extension.

Otherwise ....



I've often said ... it's a fantastic saw, for what it is.

I'm starting to shop for a 3-5HP cabinet saw, though. My only real gripe with the 4100 -- and I do mean only -- is that -- mounted on a mobile base -- it's not rock steady.

Nothing that a 400-500 pound cabinet saw won't fix.

Also getting tired of watching the feed rates that the TV woodworkers can use with THEIR cabinet saws, and how much easier you can manage sheet goods, much of the time.

But I don't imagine I'll sell my Bosch. Just too darned good a saw. Forrest blade (full kerf) and 6" Dado King. GREAT blades. Just great !

Like me ... you may WANT to upgrade to a cabinet saw, some day, but ... it's likely you won't NEED to.

Good choices !

[Matthew Hills]

I'm assuming the minimum kerf width is for compatibility with the riving knife?
I've only used the older 4000 table saw.

For dado insert -- I just made my own with MDF + jigsaw + router, based on stock insert.
You'll probably still want to make your own so that you can have a zero-clearance insert, especially if you're doing any plywood.
Making a crosscut sled is the other key item to make (this will help with several things -- supporting the cut like a zero-clearance insert, and also improving the feeding of a stock --- the table in front of the blade isn't especially big, and is the tradeoff for the saw size)

The left-support and back support are both nice to have. A shop vac is also really nice, as the dust-collection shroud on the bosch saws works pretty well with this -- certainly better than what's on the hybrid saw I use now.

I didn't really like doing sheet goods on the bosch, so try and cut down as much as you can with a circ saw first.

How tall are your shelves going to be? Gets a bit hairy to cut dadoes if the piece is too large on the table.

Matt

[Adam Shapiro]

The .092 is required to clear the riving knife, on mine I think that number's stamped onto the knife itself. The WWII thin kerf works really well with the Bosch saw, it's the same set up I've used for a while. Just make sure the riving knife is aligned perfectly with the blade (there are screws at the base of the knife). I think the blade is less then .002 larger then the knife, so there's not a lot of room for anything to be out of alignment before the wood can bind up.