PVC or landscape duct for dust collection duct?

[Sean Rainaldi]

I'm setting up a dust collection system for my garage shop and was thinking about using PVC or land scape hose available at the big box stores instead of the flexible hose to save on $. Problem is the OD for PVC for 4" pipe is 4.5" and the ID is 4", whereas the standard ID for the flex hose many folks use for dust collection is around 3 7/8 - for the machine drops such as a tablesaw or a jointer or planer.

Any suggestions how I can adapt to my machiine ports? I could not find anything at either the big box stores or woodworking retailers like a reducer.

Or is there a cheaper alternative to either PVC or the landscape drain ducts at the big box stores?

I think I will be using only the 4" for my floor machines (and 2.5" hose for things like my router table and maybe a sanding table). I'll be tying this all in to my steel city 65110 which has a 4" port - I think it's a 600 cfm unit.

I'll be tying in to my table saw, jointer, planer, router table, chop saw later a sanding table and eventually a band saw and a couple of sanders and will use some blast gates.

Thanks.

[Matt Meiser]

I don't know of any hose or flexible pipe sold at the big box store that is suitable for dust collection. Its not smooth enough inside. Woodwerks sells a really nice, pretty inexpensive hose that I like.

PVC pipe works great. For 4" pipe to hose connections, I use quick couplers. Put a 4" PVC coupler on the end of the pipe then slip the quick coupler inside. Occasionally the fit will be loose and a wrap or two of electrical tape on the quick coupler fixes it.

[Sean Rainaldi]

So just use the PVC over head and the appropriate PVC elbows and fittings (glued with that epoxy) and quick couple with electrical tape and quick couplers to all machines?

Think that would be the cheapest alternative to the standard dust collection hose?

DO they make quick couplers for 2.5" pvc to 2.5" ports?

[Chris Kennedy]

Just to warn you of a potential issue -- I have a 1HP DC about the same size as your Steel City. It chokes on planer chips. You may want to plan on a chip separator on the line to the planer.

Cheers,

Chris

[Sean Rainaldi]

Yeah that is one thing I want to add a seperator.

[Dan Hintz]

I chose to go with sewage PVC pipe... the wall thickness is less than Schedule 40 pipe, which means a smaller OD. If it is still a problem, take a 2" wide ring of it, slice it across the ring to shrink it in diameter a couple tenths of an inch, and glue it inside the main pipe halfway to act as a coupler. I still went with the typical flex hose, though, so removing a bit of the wire and warming to stretch is the way I go.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Do they sell that sewage pipe at HD or Lowes?

Or where could I buy it?

[Dan Hintz]

A buddy found a (semi-)local place that stocked it. Search for piping supply companies in your area... if you're anywhere near a decent-sized city you should find at least one. Wall thickness is about 1/16" for 6", plenty thick enough to handle a few HP of suction capabilities. I think I paid $200 for four 10' straights, ten 45s, one 90, and three Ys.

HD and Lowes only stock Schedule 40 on the shelves, though I never bothered checking if they could order the sewage stuff. I have yet to see 6" of anything in their stores.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Yeah I did not see any there either.

I wonder if Menards carries it.

What is the technical name for it? Just PVC sewer pipe?

...actually I just checked with Menards they call it schedule 30 sewer pipe and sell it for $6.48 for a 10' section 4"dia and have all the y fittings and t's.

[Jamie Buxton]

Use snap-lock metal ducting from the big-box stores for your rigid runs, including bends and junctions. It is inexpensive, readily available, and strong enough. If your machines never move, you can run the snaplock directly to them. If they move, perhaps some flex for the last couple of feet is in order. If you do extensive work on the snaplock, like shortening sections, get the crimping pliers, which'll be stocked somewhere near the snaplock. My shop is plumbed in 6" round snaplock, but I have a bigger DC than you. Perhaps 4" snaplock would be enough for a 600 cfm DC.

[Byron Trantham]

I use PVC sewer pipe and it's associated fittings. A suggestion - do not use 90 dergree fittings. Make a 90 degree by glueing two 45's with about 4" of separation - a nice smooth 90. I don't remember which company, Rockler I think, offers a pvc to standard 4" flex hose fitting now. In fact they offer several combinations makeing the sewer pipe stuff quite easy to set up.

[Matt Meiser]

For 90's you want to use 2 45's to allow for a longer radius. Don't glue! I stick a screw or two in each joint for mechanical strength if needed, then tape with foil tape. Makes future changes much, much easier and you can reuse the parts.

Our Menards pretty much stocks everything in 4" and all the 6" fittings. 6" pipe can be harder to find. I got all mine at Carter Lumber, but not all Carter stores even stock it.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Use snap-lock metal ducting from the big-box stores for your rigid runs, including bends and junctions. It is inexpensive, readily available, and strong enough. If your machines never move, you can run the snaplock directly to them. If they move, perhaps some flex for the last couple of feet is in order. If you do extensive work on the snaplock, like shortening sections, get the crimping pliers, which'll be stocked somewhere near the snaplock. My shop is plumbed in 6" round snaplock, but I have a bigger DC than you. Perhaps 4" snaplock would be enough for a 600 cfm DC.

Is Snaplock cheaper than the schedule 30 sewer pipe?

[Sean Rainaldi]

Ah Matt you live in Ida I am in SE mich area. What's the nearest carters lumber to the down river area?

[Sean Rainaldi]

For strapping what do you guys use to strap the sewer pipe to rafters or ceiling?