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Thread: Cabinet Doors Using Cane Inserts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Tampa Bay Area of Florida
    Posts
    867

    Cabinet Doors Using Cane Inserts

    I recently completed a bathroom vanity consisting of granite top and painted poplar cabinet with 8 drawers and a set of small doors with cane instead of the more traditional wood panels. It was my first attempt at installing cane. I cut 7/32 wide grooves around the perimeter of the inside face of each door, and then used 5/32 wide spline material. I also used hide glue which will make the task of replacing damaged cane easier if repairs become necessary. The cane should give the added benefit of providing ventilation under the sink cabinet section. While the pictures don't show it, the vanity base is made of resawn cherry for the toe kicks and cherry bun feet at three exposed corners. The end of the cabinet features panel construction rather than simply a plain flat surface design. The 8 drawers use Blumotion slides and handcut dovetail joints using the sawcut-to-sawcut technique where the joints are cut but NOT test-fitted prior to gluing. Making handcut dovetail joints in these 8 drawers plus another 13 drawers in our new kitchen has given me the practice needed to become proficient in making handcut dovetails in place of using my expensive jigs or router table. Plus, it's a lot more satisfying!
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    Last edited by Jeff Wright; 07-22-2011 at 8:53 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,802
    Great idea and look. Please post pics of the drawers!

    Mike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Tampa Bay Area of Florida
    Posts
    867
    Here are some pics of the drawers and a detail of the vanity bottom including a lipped edge I applied to the cabinet bottom. Notice the corner was given a significant rounded shape to soften its look. Also, I most always make my rails and stiles 7/8 inch thick. I made the applied drawer fronts nearly the same thickness to bring its front surface to where I wanted it to end up relative to the face frames. The drawers were made with removable bottoms with a screw in a slotted hole at the rear of the drawer. I finished the drawers using simple spray cans of shellac (dewaxed) sanding sealer and spray cans of Minwax lacquer (satin). I think I used two coats of the shellac and at least four coats of the lacquer with about an hour drying time between each coat. I have HVLP equipment, but for such small jobs I don't find it worth the trouble to set up and then clean.
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