240 volt plug types

[Kirk Poore]

Kirk, my outlets are in excess of 4 feet above the floor and I've never had one fall out in 30 years.

However it is a possibility I guess..............Regards, Rod.

My twist lock's stay in, but my standard 120V plugs pull loose sometimes, and have (on rare occasions) fallen out.

Kirk

[Dan Hintz]

If plugs are falling out by themselves (nothing pulling on the cord), your sockets should be replaced... there should be a positive gripping action on the plug's blades.

[Chip Lindley]

My shop standard is L6-30 for 230V machines. Although these twist-lock plugs and recepticals are expensive if bought at a commercial supplier, bargains on lots can be found on ebay if you keep watch. I equipped the whole shop and have spares for what 2 or 3 of the plugs retail for. L6-30 with 10ga. wiring is sufficient for up to a 5hp single-phase machine.

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[Chris Mahmood]

I use L14-20 so I can have a neutral. It's useful to be able to use contactors with 120V coils and hardwired task lights.

[Paul Carlucci]

I'm going with L14-30 connectors just so I can use the same cords that my generator takes. Never know when that synergy may come in handy. Also one of my outlets will be in the ceiling so Twistlock is a minimum feature.

[David Nelson1]

That was the primary I went with the twist locks as well. Now I gotta change them from 5L to 6L thanks to John

[Aaron Montgomery]

I've got L5 & L6 twist locks in my shop. I really like them for the ease of removal and positive lock. They're certainly a little more expensive than other options, but it's really in the noise when installed on a machine that cost thousands of dollars. I did actually build an adapter cord when my buddy brought his 230V welder over that had a dryer plug on it. (He went with the cheapest option.)

[Jim Becker]

I use twist locks on all my 240v circuits. They cost a little more money, but I like the positive connection they provide.

[Jim Neeley]

An L14-20 is handy if you want to run two 120V 20A circuits on one extension cord. Warning: the circuits must be wired in different phases to avoid overloading the neutral leg. I used one for this to run circuits to my 30"x52" router table with one circuit for the 15A router and the other for my 15A DC or a 11A shop-vac. While I was at it I wired it through a double-pole switch so the router on-off switch turns off the DC or vacuum at the same time.

It does require 4/c #12 or heavier wire.

Jim