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Thread: Efflorescence removal

  1. #1

    Efflorescence removal

    In hope of moving out of state soon, I had an appraisal done on my home. Due to the drastic drop in property values in my area, I wanted to hit the ground running before listing. Agent loved the house although noted one red light area. I have a 1-1/2" high ring of efflorescence in Southwest corner of basement. Agent felt prospective buyers would more than notice this and red flag the purchase as flood damaged w/ probability 1-1/2" of water standing in the basement in the past. The truth of the matter is yes, I experienced a leak 2 years ago. It was a trickle of water at junction of floor and bottom block due to tree root clogged perimeter drain tile. It was a leak you could keep at bay w/ mop bucket twice a day. I had the foundation dug up on this side of the house and 20' of new tile installed along with two clean-outs, correct waterproofing and new back fill. Done by licensed Sewer service contractors w/ all documentation. No problems since. Agent mentioned this needs to be fully disclosed which I have no problem with although the efflorescence needs to be removed or covered. How is this removed safely as this is inside w/o much ventilation?


    Mac
    Last edited by Mac McQuinn; 07-26-2011 at 5:21 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I just Googled "Efflorescence removal" and a ton of hits came up,
    Please help support the Creek.


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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Sorry you are moving out of Michigan Mac. Many of the good people are.

    Larry

  4. #4
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    You can use Muratic acid to do that. available at any BORG. probably find it somewhere around the concrete wall paints. pay attention to the warnings and how to protect yourself while you use it.

    Just googled up this link for you on the topic.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Mac, muratic acid will work but it's going to be difficult to work with in your setting. First, try scrubbing vigorously with a stiff bristle brush. If that fails scrub the area with a solution 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water. Dry as best you can with a shop vac. Let dry completely and repeat if necessary. You can increase the amount of vinegar to half and half, rinse thoroughly, and repeat the procedure. You might also try CLR.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
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    If this is a mineral deposit wouldn't scrubbing some CLR onto the spots work? Pressure washing might work too except you'd have a clean spot (i.e. have to do the entire side).

  7. #7
    Thanks everyone for submitting your ideas. I'm going to try the Stiff Brush/Vinegar/water 1st as this is an enclosed area and the Muratic acid might be a little too toxic for this purpose. Not sure what's in CLC although I'll do a label scan tonight at Menards.
    Thanks!

    Mac

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Mid Michigan
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    Phosphoric acid is safer than muriatic acid and is used to clean concrete working equipment. I don't know where to purchase it though.
    David B

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