Need a new recip saw

[ian maybury]

Must say I think it depends a lot on what you need the saw for. They aren't exactly a precision piece of kit, and there's a huge range of prices depending on the brand. I recently bought a cheapie mains powered model (but with a blade quick release) since it was only for occasional light work (cutting some hard to get at roofing timbers), and couldn't justify paying x3 for a posh brand. It works very well with the right choice of a decent quality blade in - which latter is the case with any saw...

ian

[Rich Engelhardt]

The other (DeWalt) mechanism is a lever on the side of the shoe which activates the lock on the holder

IIRC, that's the 4 position head. @ least that's the same type release I have on my 10 amp DeWalt DW304PK.
I've used mine for a couple years now and the only time I've had issues with that release is when I push the saw too hard and it gets too hot.
I swap blades a lot - swapping between a demolition blade and a more aggressive wood blade - depending on what I'm cutting.

I also have a slightly older Bosch RS20. Mine has the 13.5 amp motor, not the 13 amp motor on the present RS20. It has an adjustable foot ( a bit funky and you have to get used to it - but - it does work just as you desire since I use that trick myself), twist style release and more power ( a lot more power) than the DeWalt.

Despite having more power, the Bosch sees very limited use.
It's not happy at the end of an extension cord and/or being on the same circut as the twin 500W work lights.
The lower draw DeWalt doesn't mind either situation.

If I had to replace either, I believe I'd pick up the 12 amp Milwaukee with the swivel handle. The DeWalt 4 position head really spoiled me. It 's a lot more comfotable to make horizontal cuts with that head. The first time I used that saw, I had to cut through an old 2.5" galvanized steel vent pipe. It went right through it w/out any fuss & because of the way the blade & handle were oriented, keeping the cut straight was pretty easy.
IMHO, the 12 amp swivel handle Milwaukee would be a good balance of power w/out too much draw and offer the ability to attack horizontal cuts easily.
@ least that's my thinking.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I knew there was something else...I'm going to stick with an AC Corded model. When I use it, it is really short (like cutting a nail), or really long like spending half a day breaking down scrap to send to the dump or cutting saplings too small for the chainsaw. So I don't think battery power is going to work.

I'm going to have to stop at the BORGs and see which has the rotating head or handle. I don't think I would use it much, but it may come in handy if it doesn't increase the price too much.

I'm looking to get one step up from the cheapie. I want one that will last when used more than the average homeowner, but not as much as a construction crew. So I'm looking inexpensive name brand.

[Jerome Hanby]

Good call on the AC powered unit. For all the real work where I needed the saw, run time on the battery models was crippling. having both on the other hand is nice. For little spot jobs here and there,no power cord is nice.

[Tom Ewell]

If you see one, check out the Milwaukee Hatchet, not as "robust" as it's big brothers for the heavy stuff but it's features can be handy and it will do all that you mention.
I have the corded version and it's my first grab on the jobsite.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'm going to have to stop at the BORGs and see which has the rotating head or handle.

I could swear I saw a Milwaukee the other day on the web that swivels - but - I must have been mistaken since I can't find it now.
Anyhow - FWIW - HD has a real good price on one of the Milwaukee saws right now. The HD website is down @ the moment though so i can't say which one.
I believe it's a 12 amp unit that going for $84 or $89.

[Anthony Whitesell]

HD has two Milwaukee 12A models, one at $99 one for $149 and a 15A for $199. The extra $50 on the 12A models is for the orbital action.

ToolKing's daily special is for a reconditioned 12A with orbital action but a different model than HD (6520-81 vs 6520-21) but that may be because it is reconditioned.

I've opted for the TooKing deal. Reconditioned Milwaukee 12A with orbital function for $70 shipped.

[David Thompson 27577]

(You said a bunch of stuff, then continued with..)..................I found the Milwalkee very heavy, but it looks like it has a metal case compared to the Dewalt's plastic one. This is as far as my research has gone so far.

Which recip saw do you have and why don't you like it?

I am a woodworker by hobby for decades, and a small-jobs contractor for about 9 years now. My first recip saw was a Milwaukee that I bought at one of the big box stores. It had a model number that was (I thought) the same as the Milwaukee that I had seen at a specialty store -- a contractor's supply house. But the one at the big box was WAY less expensive.

It lasted less than one year, then it quit reciprocating -- the motor ran, but nothing else moved. I learned from others on that jobsite that mine probably had a plastic gearbox, and that the model number was just a bit different from true contractor's model. (Like maybe mine was a 203A, and the good ones were model 203K. All of the external elements of mine looked just like the good ones -- but it was built much more cheaply.)

I went to a supply house and bought a Bosch. It's a beast, a wonderful tool, has more power than I've ever needed. And it has a nice tool-free blade mounting method.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I noticed the same thing years about about the BORG model numbers. I believe they have done this for two reasons. First lower quality parts to reduce the price. The two models meet the same specs but not the longevity. Second, some times two BORG stores don't even have the same model numbers. I believe this is to avoid the competition pricing as well as reason #1. It have been my experience that if the model numbers they are likely identical. If the UPC is the same the they are probably the same tool. Obviously online I could not check the UPC, but the models were the same number and listed on manufacturers website (often I have found the manufacturer does not have a listing for the BORG models). So I believe they were the same tool. In the case of the reconditioned versus new, I'm hoping the model number change is just so it is "easy to inventory". All of the searches for the model number turned up as reconditioned, none listed it as new.

[Paul McGaha]

Mines at least 10 years old. A Milwaukee Super Sawzall. I think the stroke is 1 1 /8".

It's a beast. Highly recommend Milwaukee.

PHM

[Anthony Whitesell]

Mines at least 10 years old. A Milwaukee Super Sawzall. I think the stroke is 1 1 /8".

It's a beast. Highly recommend Milwaukee.

PHM

Got one on it's way. Not the super, but the middle one. 12A reg, then 12A with orbital, then the super 15A with orbital.

[Peter Quinn]

I have the smaller sawzall and a bigger PC tiger. I like em both, the PC packs more punch, for when you want to get medieval on some demo, go caveman style and just rip &&%^ up, the milwaukee has a bit more finesse, or at least as much finesse as you can reasonably attribute to a sawzall! I like them both. The milwaukee was given to me by my father who though it was broken and bought another, the PC I bought because it was the cheapest thing at the supply house I walked into the day I needed one on a job immediately. I guess you have already bought yours, but if you should want to ever get the meanest reciprocating saw ever look to the bosch bulldog for "Honey, I just cut the carrying beam o accident" power. Heavy, but strong.

[Mark Ashmeade]

I have a Bosch 18V Litheon job. I'll give a mixed review.

The battery is outstanding. No, OUTSTANDING. Cuts through 2x6, nails, steel plate, screws, you name it, for hours on end.

However, the plastic case is showing stress, and it's not quite a year old. By stress, I mean the blue plastic is showing white at a couple of stress points on the handle. It hasn't broken yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if it did.

I suppose I can get it fixed under warranty if it does, I have another 2 years on it.

Great saw, I'm just nervous on the handle breaking.

[Charles Wiggins]

I have a Ryobi P510. The main reason for buying that one? Because I already had several other Ryobi One+ tools. I haven't used it a lot, but it's done well with everything I've asked of it, especially with a Lithium battery. I would definitely put it in the homeowner class. It's heavy enough to hack through some 1" threaded rod used in the wall anchor system in our old basement, but light enough to use for tree trimming on the limbs that are too big for pruners but too small or too close for the chainsaw. My main complaint is that sometimes the trigger lockout is hard to depress to get it started, especially if I have gloves on. I imagine if I used it more I'd have more complaints.

[William Burgess]

I have the 12 amp Milwaukee Sawzall. It has done everything I have asked it to do. The Super was tempting but i'm just a homeowner and didn't really need anything that nice. It has done everything I have asked, from tree limbs/roots, cutting up an old metal picnic table and ripping up a bathtub. I'm not a huge fan of cordless tools (except for drills/impact drivers) as anytime I have used a cordless saw, I have needed it for more than 1 battery. I also am never somewhere where I don't have access to a outlet.