[OP]
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Last edited by Jamie Bacon; 08-13-2011 at 2:26 AM. Reason: Added picture
Member
Wonderful job! I commend your efforts and applaud your results :-)
Love your blog too. You earned at least one new follower.
Jim
Member
Good to see you have gotten them done!
How did you make the bolsters? I had recommended using thick steel washers. Glad to see that you apparently didn't have warping problems.
Last edited by george wilson; 08-13-2011 at 10:55 AM.
Contributor
These look excellent, nice work.
Trevor Walsh
TWDesignShop
Member
How about posting edge on views,and views of the bevel sides of the chisels?
[OP]
Member
Hey George. The bolsters started out as a length of 3/4" wide, 1/8" thick O-1. I marked a line about 5/8" from the end and drilled a hole in the middle of the 5/8" and the 3/4" measurements. I drilled a pilot hole first and then went to I believe a 11/64 bit. From there I filed a rectangular hole and kept test fitting it to the tang until it fit square and tightly where I wanted it on the tang. Once I had that right I cut the bolster free from the length of steel at that 5/8 mark and the filed it to an octagon and then tapered it down toward the edges with a file. There's a pretty full description of the whole process I used as well as additional pictures on by blog. Just click the word "blog" in my original post and it links right to it.
And thank you for taking the time to answer all the questions I had for you.
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the compliments Jim and Trevor. I'm pleased how these turned out.
Member
Jamie,I looked at your blog. Good pictures. About double tempering: It does no good unless you re temper the steel at 25º LESS than the first temper. I hope you were barely able to hold the chisels in your hand when you put them into the toaster oven. About 130º is how col you should let them get to,and not let them get colder. This helps the performance of the steel,and is known as austempering.
The way you put on your bolsters is how I have been suggesting people to do it. Unless a person is an expert blacksmith,they are difficult to form from the solid.
Your chisels came out very nice. Now,if you can stamp "Newbould Best" on them !!! IIRC,that is how the originals are stamped.
Last edited by george wilson; 08-13-2011 at 10:05 PM.
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the kind words George. It means a lot hearing you say they came out nice.
Well, my double tempering was a waste; this time. I'll try it the way you said on the next two I make. I am sure they didn't get too cold before I tempered them. After I quenched them, I wiped the oil off with a rag and sanded the black off the steel on some 80 grit paper stuck to my power jointer's bed and then put them in the oven. All the while holding the tang with vise grips and wearing a glove on my left hand as to not burn myself while applying a little pressure on the chisel while sanding off the black.
Contributor
Really nice looking chisels! They look so very light and graceful I bet they are a joy to use for paring.
I enjoyed reading your blog as well. Thanks for posting.
[OP]
Member
Thanks Jeff. I haven't had a chance to use them yet, but they feel really good in the hand. Glad you like the blog. It's nice to know people enjoy it.
Member
Jamie,I thought you told me the chisels were 1/32" thick on the bevel end.
[OP]
Member
That was my original plan George, but as I was grinding the taper, they looked so thin when I got to 1/16" that I chickened out and stopped there.Originally Posted by george wilson
Member
It has been a long time since I looked at those original chisels. Were they 1/32" thick on their ends?
Last edited by george wilson; 08-14-2011 at 2:51 PM.
[OP]
Member
According to the book The Tool Chest of Benjamin Seaton, the 2" chisel has a blade thickness of 1/16" at the cannel and 5/32" at the shoulder. The 7/16 chisel is 1/32" at the cannel and 5/32" at the shoulder. These are the only two that thicknesses are given for. These are by Thomas Shaw and are the ones I'm styling my chisels after.
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