What to do with this solid 2" table top?

[Thomas Delpizzo]

I was at my flying club recently and we decided to get rid of a trailer (for an 18 wheeler) that we've used for storage and had to clear it out. An old work table from IBM (I'm in IBM country) was sitting in there and up for grabs. I decided to take it. It has a 2" thick top, what I believe is maple and covered with some junky Formica that's peeling off. It's slightly warped. It measures 48" x 30" and rests on paint-peeling metal legs. I've taken it apart and it's now in my dry basement. I wanted to make a woodworking bench out of it, but it's only 48". I also have some scrap walnut that can be used for butcherblock that I was thinking I may be able to use in some fashion to extend the table, but attachment, strength, etc are issues I need to work out. Any ideas? can I still use it for a workbench?

[Bill ThompsonNM]

4' isn't bad. I think trying to extend it might be a royal pain. Better to build the base, throw on some vises and go for it! If you really decide it's too short start another bench once this one is built. This presumes, if course, you can take care of the warp.

[Matt Meiser]

I agree with Bill that adding on would be a pain.

What is a good size might depend on your methods of work and your projects--and of course your available space. If you are building armoires you'll want a bigger bench than if you are building small boxes. My work is mostly power tool work supported by hand tools and my projects have ranged from a small desk clock to a whole kitchen. My current bench is 6' and could stand to be 8'. If I learned to put tools away immediately after use instead of setting (eventually piling) them on the end of the bench during a project I would find 6' fine.

If I was looking for something to do with the top you have, I'd use it for a smaller assembly table or a secondary bench along a wall. For the latter I'd probably rip it down to a standard 24" which would give you a chance to remove some of the warp. The top I bought was 30x96 and was cupped front to back slightly. I cut off 24" from one end which later went on top of a rolling tool chest, then ripped 6" off one side. I then added a wide apron on the front and right side. That removed enough that flattening with a jointer plane was pretty easy, even for me.

[Dick Holt]

I got an old table from work. It was solid maple butcher block. I repurposed it into a vanity top for my bathroom. Came out very nice.
Dick

[Thomas Delpizzo]

Keep the suggestions coming! I may just make a small bench out of it now because it will be multipurpose. I will be doing a little guitar work on it also and some assembly work. I already have an eye on a vise from Lee Valley!!
I'm going to try to dampen the wood and lay a very heavy tool box on it to see if the warp will come out. Barring that, I may just plane it down by hand as my jointer is 8" and my planer is 13"

[Andrew Kertesz]

If the warp is extreme you can make a jig for your router and flatten it that way and then finish with hand work. This link will give you the basic idea. http://woodzone.com/tips/planerjig.htm

[Thomas Delpizzo]

Great idea. I've seen those jigs. I may just do that instead of the method I described.