Tough Love is for turners and toolmakers!
Anytime there is a shop accident or near miss in an industrial setting, there is always a judgemental rush to decide whether man or machine (tool in this case) is at fault. Generally the cause is somewhere in between. Assuming that more care by the turner would have prevented it or that had he been using another brand of tool, it would not have happened doesn't help us learn something from the incident. These are usually just hopeful opinions. Noone knows that they are going to have an accident the second before it happens and none of us know when our next one may occur. That is why we must minimize our risks by learning as much as we can from every situation.
What can we learn from the broken tool that we can use in our own turning?
- Awareness that tools can and do break - theyare not indestructible. That is why we all know to keep the rest close to the work, and try to avoid hanging the cutting tip well away from the rest.
- There are times when this is very difficult. Hollowing a deep vase, or parting off a large diameter turning pushes this.
- After all else has failed (e.g. using the best shape of tool rest for the job, selecting a large section tool instead of a small thin section, parting off with a saw instead of a tool, thinking about the cut overnite, .......) and we decide to go ahead –
- Then we must be certain we are standing outof the line of fire with our best personal protective equipment.
What can we learn from the snapped tool handle at the tang that we can use in our own turning?
- Many of us make our own woodturning handles. How do we decide how deep we should insert the tool into the handle?
- While the tool that Bill photographed appeared to have a very shallow insert depth (my opinion) I decided to do a little"research" and see what others do.
- Alan Lacer has published several articles on making your own tool handles. He has been around a long time. I found an article from American Woodworker 06/24/10. His guideline is that for round tools, the tool insert depth should be 1/4 to 1/3of the length of the tool - so on a 10" long steel tool, insert 2.5 to 3inches.
- I also took a look at a large set of clear plastic handled 30 year old Craftsman screw drivers which I own, to see how deep the steel is inserted into the handle. They have different insert depths dependent upon tool diameter and shank length, but all are approximately 22-28% of bladelength. For example, the largest - a 5/16" square, 12" long blade is inserted 2-3/4". The insert depth on Bill's tool appears to be 1/6 of its length, if that.
The last thing that we should learn from Bill's episode is that the total tool is the sum of its parts and is no better than its weakest link. So, if you buy a great blade and install it yourself in a poorly fitted handle, you have a poor tool. If a great looking blade and a great looking handle are poorly connected, you have a poor tool.
Be safe. Sometime I’ll share my “18 stitches in the chin flying cherry story” from January!!!
Last edited by Jerry Wright; 08-24-2011 at 3:13 PM.
Jerry
"It is better to fail in originality than succeed in imitation" - Herman Melville