Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 29 of 29

Thread: Block Plane User Woes

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary AB, Canada
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Griggs View Post
    I'm wondering if this less of an issue of a block plane that fits his hand and more of an issue of a block that is specifically designed for 1 handed use... ...It seems to me that the solution is some type of apron plane ( LN, LV, Stanley or whatever) in the under 6" size that will prevent having to put so much on the finger since more of the hand would be near/over the toe.

    Just a thought.
    Another thought I will look into for sure... Thanks!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    2,854
    Quote Originally Posted by bob blakeborough View Post
    It happens very quickly. One or two passes no problem, but after probably 30 seconds of consistent work, the pain comes on quickly. It is far more significant in the finger I have on the mount adjuster for sure. Once I stop, it doesn't go away quickly either. The knuckle joints will often remained locked for a bit, and then it is sore there after. Some pieces just don't secure very well with the set-up I currently have. I hope to remedy that soon with a proper bench build with the right vises and clamps but as of now, it is what it is...
    Bob - While I have and use many block planes (largely of the LN variety, although a few of the British infill "chariot" type), what I reach for most often is a bronze L-N #2. I had one of the nickel-bronze L-N #1s, but I found it a bit too small to accurately grip. The #2 was much better, and still small enough to use on short box sides, chamfering jobs, and the like that's typically associated with block planes. That relegates the 60-1/2 or 103 to less-intensive jobs, and helps avoid the joint pain problem you're describing.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge LA
    Posts
    968
    The #1 size is, for me, more painful to use than a block plane. If i find myself using my block plane for long enough to cramp, i will switch to a 2 or 3 size, or simply hold the block plane with two hands.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497

    Originally Posted by bob blakeborough
    I should backtrack a bit and say that I realize it isn't the LV LABP specifically that is an issue as it really is a great little plane, but more that it is the size/shape of a block plane in general that isn't feeling good in my hand in certain working situations, those being when I have to use it one-handed instead of 2 handed... That is why I was thinking No.1 as it is small enough to hopefully handle single handed and still function well. I am going to stop by Lee Valley however and see if adding a knob makes it feel better for just $10.00...

    That being said, I find myself "desiring" a No.1 now just because I have been thinking about it so much! lol! "M U S T RESIST TEMPTATION!!!"



    Bob

    I do not understand the use of #1 and #2 planes for the typical block plane work, which is trimming. Seems crazy to me.

    I suspect the issue is the width of the LV LA BP.

    When I went out looking to buy a new "standard sized" block plane a good many years ago now, I was faced with the choice of a LV LA BP and the LN 60 1/2. I already had a LN #103 (common angle bed). The narrower #60 1/2 was a much better fit for my hand inspite of my paw being broader-than-average. I went for that. Never regretted it. Some years later LV brought out the Premium Veritas pair, which are the same width as the #60 1/2, and a better design.

    There is a comparison of these planes here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html

    The easiest plane for one-handed trim work is my LN #103. The LV Apron plane was not out then, and I think it is a slightly better design (with the straight sides). You should look at these as well. The common angle on the #103 excells at all-round work (edges and end grain).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 08-25-2011 at 9:34 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Winterville NC
    Posts
    389
    I have a miller falls bock plane I was able to turn and install a knob . I also have the LN with a knob and like them a lot as I am older with hurting hands. The 1020 and 103 LN's don't seem to hurt but have a smallerr frame and thus lessweight. Harry

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,697
    Hey Bob... I decided to do a little experiment tonight, and I might need to take back what I said about preferring the LABP w/o the wooden knob. I have a dovetailed carcass that was mostly trimmed up, but still had some marking gauge marks I wanted to remove. So I decided to go to work on these with my block using it one handed only. Sure enough after a few minutes of one handed planing my pointer finger got sore and cramped. I then decided to do the same thing with the wooden knob on, paying close attending to the comfort in that finger.

    Guess what? No pain. This is counter intuitive to me since I've always felt the plane is more comfortable use w/o the knob. But what the wood knob does is change the way your pointer finger presses on the toe of the plane. With the brass knob your finger is bent in an arc and you need to push with (and therefore compress) your knuckle joints/muscles to put pressure on the toe. With the wood knob your finger sticks straight out the entire finger put weight on the toe w/o any compression on the joints.

    Before you go drop a ton of money on another plane, give the front knob a try. I really think it could fix your issue. Of course, if you want to get a new plane anyway (who of us doesn't) then by all means do so.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary AB, Canada
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Griggs View Post
    Hey Bob... I decided to do a little experiment tonight, and I might need to take back what I said about preferring the LABP w/o the wooden knob. I have a dovetailed carcass that was mostly trimmed up, but still had some marking gauge marks I wanted to remove. So I decided to go to work on these with my block using it one handed only. Sure enough after a few minutes of one handed planing my pointer finger got sore and cramped. I then decided to do the same thing with the wooden knob on, paying close attending to the comfort in that finger.

    Guess what? No pain. This is counter intuitive to me since I've always felt the plane is more comfortable use w/o the knob. But what the wood knob does is change the way your pointer finger presses on the toe of the plane. With the brass knob your finger is bent in an arc and you need to push with (and therefore compress) your knuckle joints/muscles to put pressure on the toe. With the wood knob your finger sticks straight out the entire finger put weight on the toe w/o any compression on the joints.

    Before you go drop a ton of money on another plane, give the front knob a try. I really think it could fix your issue. Of course, if you want to get a new plane anyway (who of us doesn't) then by all means do so.
    Wow Chris! I am greatly appreciative of the effort you went to for me on this! It may sound silly, but the Creeker community here blows me away... I see the nice stuff people do for each other on here all the time, and to have someone actually take something I am having an issue with, and not only give me some personal feedback as everyone here is awesome about, but to take the time and effort to actually work for an answer, well that is cool... For that I thank you!

    Now as for your results, tomorrow I am going to head straight down to Lee Valley and buy me the $7.95 front knob and see if it works as well for me as your experiment indicated. I will absolutely come back and post my results and hopefully it will be able to help others with the same issue as me...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,697
    You're quite welcome - I'm happy to be able to contribute and am glad the info was beneficial.

    Anyway, hopefully you'll have the same experience. Definitely let us know how the knob works for you. Regardless of what happens with knob feel free to buy an LN No. 2 so that you can gloat about it to us later. Lord knows I love a good gloat!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    I have the LV with knob and tote which I add or remove depending what I am doing. Part of the issue can be exacerbated by having a death-grip on the tool. Think golf; a lightly controlling grip maybe? You shouldn't have to hold on quite that tightly ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    1,506
    I always thought the Veritas block planes were unusually large. I much prefer my Stanley (60 1/2?) or LN (9 1/2?) or Veritas "apron plane" (lacks adjustable mouth--major drawback), but the different blades for the big Veritas come in hands--especially the toothed blade.

    (I can never remember which bed angle is the 60 1/2 and which one is the 9 1/2.)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary AB, Canada
    Posts
    381
    So I just got back from my local Lee Valley with the knob (and a couple other things as well that were unplanned... Damn you Lee Valley! lol!)... I will hopefully have a report for everyone this weekend...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary AB, Canada
    Posts
    381
    So this weekend I had the opportunity to use my block plane one handed with the new wooden knob instead of the small brass one. It was a bit strange trying to get used to a new hand position, but once I got my head (or should I say hand) wrapped around it, everything worked quite well and I did not experience the same discomfort \i was with the small brass knob. Overall verdict is positive... I will continue working with it like this and see if it keeps working for me. Thanks for testing that Chris... Just what the doctor ordered!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,697
    Quote Originally Posted by bob blakeborough View Post
    So this weekend I had the opportunity to use my block plane one handed with the new wooden knob instead of the small brass one. It was a bit strange trying to get used to a new hand position, but once I got my head (or should I say hand) wrapped around it, everything worked quite well and I did not experience the same discomfort \i was with the small brass knob. Overall verdict is positive... I will continue working with it like this and see if it keeps working for me. Thanks for testing that Chris... Just what the doctor ordered!
    Glad it worked out. I started using mine with the knob again since you started this thread. I never really kept it on before cause it does feel bit strange just holding it in one hand, but I'm finding it makes things more comfortable during extended use. Also facilitates pulling the plane when necessary.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
    Posts
    513
    You say "joints locked up", are you talking about cramps Bob? I get cramps in my right thumb, but also legs at night which is related to mineral deficiencies such as potassium.

    When using my LN 102 the area around my little finger knuckle gets sore. I don't blame the plane, I blame getting old. Doesn't matter for me whether I use it one hand or two, its the squeezing action that causes this. I use this plane every day, sometimes a lot.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •