If you can find a copy of the Shop Notes extra publication "The Complete Small Shop" they have a good plan for flip top stands. There are also quite a few in the Sketchup 3D Warehouse, but they are more models than plans...
Trying to follow the example of the master...
Not a flip top, but this is what I did with my lunchbox planer...
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Storage position with a table top installed.
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Flipped down with top removed.
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Flipped up, ready for use. Top is not used in this position.
It's on wheels and works fine for me.
Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...
I don't see any weight issues, actually it will probably be easier to flip with another tool on the other side. You might have do deal with some clearance issues with the Jet. If I remember correctly it is a lot taller than the DW735. I can't leave my planer set higher than 2 1/2" and still flip it over.
I put a DW735 onto a flip top and I love it. The first link in Trent's post is to the one I made. It is pretty easy to flip over, and far, far easier than lugging that thing around. Three years later now and there isn't anything I would want to change. It fits under my bench nicely. Maybe I'll get around to making that drawer for it someday.
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Below is the post I made in 2008:
I've almost got it done. All that is lacking is a drawer and some base trim.
Windows Media clip in free spin action
Windows Media clip with planer
Gallery photos of construction
I designed and built it to use materials I had on hand, save for the casters & pins. The materials are maple (recycled flooring strips), 2x4 3/4 birch ply, a 2x4 lowes handi ply (whatever it is), 2x4 1/2" birch ply, a couple pieces of 3/4" red oak, pine 3/4" ply bottom, pine 1x4s, 1/2" steel rod, Woodcraft 3" double locking casters, 1/8" thick nylon washers, two hitch pins, a bunch of Tightbond III, and some waterbased poly.
I intended on laminating another piece of 1/2" birch ply to the 3/4" handi ply sides. After I got the hardwood sides and top rails glued on it seemed pretty stable without the additional 1/2" sides. Most all the joints are dados or rabbits. I used some 1-1/4" lag bolts to fasten the casters.
AutoCAD drawings (dwg2007 format)
Plans in PDF format
Anyone going straight by the drawings might want to check them very closely, especially the cutting diagrams. There were a couple of small modifications I did during construction. I think I modified the drawings correctly, maybe not the diagrams though. I added a rabbit on the base ply to receive the sides and back. That also made the glue up easier. The drawings are also nominal thicknesses, be sure to take into account the actual plywood thickness.
I think the best way to execute it is to make the top then build the rest around it.
When you go to bore the hole for the rod, make sure you grab the right bit too. I mistakenly chucked a 5/8” forstner when it should have been a 1/2". Yep, I was pretty happy when I went to check the fit of the top rail on the rod.
Last edited by Erik France; 08-30-2011 at 3:03 PM.