Work Shop 3000, Wow!

[John Coloccia]

John

Could you point me in the right direction to your review....the royalty check will be in the mail.....soon....I promise.....really....

Thks

Jim

Sure. For whatever reason, it's ended up under Lathes and Accessories.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content....Paring-Chisels

[Jim Neeley]

I had a number of old tools to "initiate" (lots of sanding with coarse paper) so I tried picking up a box of 6" plain PSA disks. It was about $25 for 100 (a lifetime supply). I stuck them to the glass plate and used a boxcutter to cut the hole, using the glass as a reference. It worked like a champ!

My next stop will be an automotive paint supplier for some fine disks.

I have my shaptons for the wide blades but for the chisels, you gotta be mighty good to beat the WS3000!! It makes it so quick that you can easily sharpen between uses and not "put it off" until it's like a butter knife. <g>

[Don Wurscher]

For you WorkSharp fans like me, check out page 6 of the latest Woodsmith
for a simple jig for sharping plane irons

[Jerome Hanby]

I saw that and it reminded me of a dumbed down version of a jig/housing someone posted on SMC. I couldn't see that it added anything that the wide blade attachment from Work Sharp didn't provide. The unit the 'creeker posted provided the same added functionality of the wide blade attachment plus storage!

For you WorkSharp fans like me, check out page 6 of the latest Woodsmith
for a simple jig for sharping plane irons

[John Coloccia]

I saw that and it reminded me of a dumbed down version of a jig/housing someone posted on SMC. I couldn't see that it added anything that the wide blade attachment from Work Sharp didn't provide. The unit the 'creeker posted provided the same added functionality of the wide blade attachment plus storage!

The WS's wide blade attachment has taken some flak for not being level. They may have fixed this by now, but some made a separate platform to get around that.

[Jerome Hanby]

I bought mine right after it was introduced (it was the newest add-on to the Work Sharp at the time). I had to use a straight edge to get mine level on both sides as I tightened down the screws, but I figured that was SOP, never thought twice about it other than duh, I should have realized that when I was attaching it the first time. Now that I think about it, there was nothing in the installation instructions telling me to do that. Wonder if that's what the caused the original flak?

The WS's wide blade attachment has taken some flak for not being level. They may have fixed this by now, but some made a separate platform to get around that.

[Jim Rimmer]

I picked one up Saturday at WoodCraft. They had them for $199 and gave me a pre-sale discount for a sale that is coming up so I got 10% off - enough to cover the sales tax and toll road fees. Can't wait to try it out.

[John Coloccia]

I bought mine right after it was introduced (it was the newest add-on to the Work Sharp at the time). I had to use a straight edge to get mine level on both sides as I tightened down the screws, but I figured that was SOP, never thought twice about it other than duh, I should have realized that when I was attaching it the first time. Now that I think about it, there was nothing in the installation instructions telling me to do that. Wonder if that's what the caused the original flak?

I believe the exact complaint was that it was either impossible or extremely difficult to level it for some reason.

[Erik France]

I believe the exact complaint was that it was either impossible or extremely difficult to level it for some reason.

I found it to be a big pain to level and get aligned. I should have made a bigger wide blade table than purchased the WS kit. I prefer my MK-II jig over the WS guide too.

I wanted to use the top bar on mine recently, but I decided to sharpen the tool by other means since I was very reluctant to remove the wide blade table. I wasn't really looking forward to putting it back on.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I picked mine up this weekend too... man, it sure beats sharpening by hand. I will definitely make one of those wide blade tables- thanks for the tip on that guys.

Question for you guys though- I bought the leather and felt wheels for the machine. The felt wheel comes with a longer "arbor bolt" if you will (you know, the thing you screw in to fasten down the sanding disks). The instructions say to use the the felt wheel on top of the transparent slotted wheel... but even though the "arbor bolt" they provided with the felt wheel is longer than the one that came with the machine, it's not long enough to go all the way through the felt wheel and the slotted wheel. It doesn't engage the threads. I stared at for a few minutes and couldn't come up with any logical way to make it work.

Am I an idiot, or has anybody else run into this problem?

[John Coloccia]

I always use the buff on the leather wheel. Maybe I ran into the same problem and improvised. I don't really remember anymore. Regardless, it's more convenient than keeping the slotted wheel around (which I have absolutely no use for anyway).

[Peter Aeschliman]

Alright, sorry to clutter this thread. I got the novel idea to call tech support. They were super helpful. He went into their sample room and immediately saw the issue. The instructions with the felt wheel are incorrect- you're supposed to put the felt wheel on top of a glass wheel.

Not sure why I didn't think of that... lol

[David Larsen]

The end of last year the BORG with the orange roof had WS3000 online. WS3000, Shipping and tax came to $75. First they honored the first few out, then back ordered, then canceled. There was a customer service stink in the air. The BORG with the orange roof worked with Worksharp to secure enough units to honor the original orders. Mine came a month or so later. I am extremely pleased with the WS and the orange roof BORG customer service after they came through for us on that one. That was a great deal!

I picked up some extra leather hone wheels on clearance awhile back. They were cheap. I have more than enough of the leather hones now, so a took the leather off one of them, tossed it, and use the glass wheel to mount additional grits to it as the glass wheel is the same.

[Dave Gaul]

I picked mine up this weekend too... man, it sure beats sharpening by hand. I will definitely make one of those wide blade tables- thanks for the tip on that guys.

Question for you guys though- I bought the leather and felt wheels for the machine. The felt wheel comes with a longer "arbor bolt" if you will (you know, the thing you screw in to fasten down the sanding disks). The instructions say to use the the felt wheel on top of the transparent slotted wheel... but even though the "arbor bolt" they provided with the felt wheel is longer than the one that came with the machine, it's not long enough to go all the way through the felt wheel and the slotted wheel. It doesn't engage the threads. I stared at for a few minutes and couldn't come up with any logical way to make it work.

Am I an idiot, or has anybody else run into this problem?

You are not an idiot, unless I am too! I emailed WS about this very problem, and turns out the directions were mis-printed. I use the buffing wheel under a spare glass wheel I bought, and the longer bolt fits perfectly.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Thanks man. Yeah, I called them and they told me the same thing.

I think I'm going to just slap it on top of one of the glass wheels that have sand paper attached to them (instead of buying a new glass wheel).