Drill pen blanks

[Betty Fox]

Five inches will cover most pens you will work with. When we order them from dreamwood design they come 3/4 inches thick and five inches long. We've never had any problem matching them to pen kits.
HTH
Betty

[James Combs]

So do you all drill the complete pen blank or cut first then drill? Also is there a max length for pens? Right now I have blanks all different lengths so if I cut all the blanks to a set size so i can get any pen out of what would that max lenght be?

Craig, I always cut mine to length + 1/8" first then drill. I tend to cut plastic blanks a little longer do to the possibility of the bottom blowing out. This I will drill to a depth past the length of the tube then cut the blank on the band saw down to the + 1/8" length exposing the drilled hole. This is a good method on some woods too that may tend to fracture too much when the drill bit exits the bottom. BTW my set-up is very similar to Peter Hay in Aus, I also use an X-Y vice and v-notched jaw inserts for it.

[Craig Matheny]

I also notice the band saw is the tool of choice for cutting any reason not to use a chop saw?

[James Combs]

I also notice the band saw is the tool of choice for cutting any reason not to use a chop saw?

Yes it will do a fine job but I don't know about the rest of the folks but cutting a pen blank with a chop type saw or miter saw puts my fingers uncomfortably close to a very dangerous blade. Another downside is the width of the saw kerf. I occasionally have a blank that is already on the shy side for length and I don't want to loose anymore of it then is necessary. Using a band saw makes it easier to push that small blank across the blade with a piece of scrap.

[Stan Smith]

This is really an excellent thread! Anyone new to pen turning or even those with some experience will benefit from it.
I have been using a pen vice for years, but the results were not the best. The holes would be straight going int but too much off center coming out the bottom. I tried using the level each time but still had a problem. Next I used shims and that helped some. I noticed that the bit wobbled some so I decided to see if I could improve my DP some. I bought a new Jacobs ball bearing chuck and some power twist v belts. I still had a problem. I stumbled across this thread and immediately bought the Penn State dedicated drill chuck. I already have a #2MT drill press chuck. Problem solved except that I cannot advance the drill chuck with the tailstock handle because the travel is too short since I'm using a jet mini lathe. I just push the tailstock on the bed. I drill at the slowest speed which is where I start to bring to round anyway. I wish I would have read this thread years ago though. Luckily, I only ruined a few blanks. I don't cut my blanks to length on the chop saw. The band say is safer if you've got your fence setup right. I also have one of those rockwell inverted scroll saw tables, but is vibrates some. You can use a scroll saw with a #9 - #12 blade for length or width cutting. If you are worried about your fingers, you can use a wood clamp from HF. I used to use one for pen drilling on the DP also. I cut v's in mine but you don't have to. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Stan

[John Aspinall]

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet - clear your chips often. A drill is much more likely to wander off course with flutes packed full of debris that can't escape.

[Stan Smith]

I decided to try using just my wood clamp on the DP and the hole was off just by a small amount. It was off by a lot using the pen drilling vice. Guess I found the main culprit after all, but I'll continue to use the lathe from now own. Not sure what to do with the pen drilling vice now either.

This is really an excellent thread! Anyone new to pen turning or even those with some experience will benefit from it.
I have been using a pen vice for years, but the results were not the best. The holes would be straight going int but too much off center coming out the bottom. I tried using the level each time but still had a problem. Next I used shims and that helped some. I noticed that the bit wobbled some so I decided to see if I could improve my DP some. I bought a new Jacobs ball bearing chuck and some power twist v belts. I still had a problem. I stumbled across this thread and immediately bought the Penn State dedicated drill chuck. I already have a #2MT drill press chuck. Problem solved except that I cannot advance the drill chuck with the tailstock handle because the travel is too short since I'm using a jet mini lathe. I just push the tailstock on the bed. I drill at the slowest speed which is where I start to bring to round anyway. I wish I would have read this thread years ago though. Luckily, I only ruined a few blanks. I don't cut my blanks to length on the chop saw. The band say is safer if you've got your fence setup right. I also have one of those rockwell inverted scroll saw tables, but is vibrates some. You can use a scroll saw with a #9 - #12 blade for length or width cutting. If you are worried about your fingers, you can use a wood clamp from HF. I used to use one for pen drilling on the DP also. I cut v's in mine but you don't have to. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Stan

[Ron Radliff]

My drill press is a bench top model with a short quill travel distance, so I have some issues making that work. When I've tried using the lathe, I seem to get quite a bit of wobble in my drill bit. Not sure what's going on there.

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Craig,There is lots of good advice here, it sounds like you are using a Shopsmith as your lathe?There may be some restrictions for drilling on a Shopsmith, I do not know it very well.BUT, you can start by NOT spending your cash on pen blank drill jigs that you will not use in the future.....Start by making the drill press holder from some off cuts you already have in the shop. Anything that will hold the blank vertical on the drill press table, squared as noted by all advice above.When you can, you will by a chuck and at that time buy a set of SPIGOT JAWS. This will allow you to accurately and easily drill your pen blanks ON THE LATHE...The 4 jaw chuck and the Jacobs drill chuck are essential items and will always be used as long as you want to do Woodturning. Just my thoughts and trying to save you lots of money.If we could survey members on how many UNUSED pen blank drill jigs are now gathering dust, I bet there would be many! I believe drill jigs, squaring tools (cannot remember the proper name for these) and pen presses are a total waste of your money.Also consider the Oneway Live Centre and you can make free mandrel savers and get great "real round" pens and without bending your mandrels.Lots of info to consider, but it is worth every minute spent on planning ahead.Peter F.

[Stan Smith]

Planning ahead is good. Wasting $$ on, as you point out, little used equip. is not. I had been using a wood clamp, but I thought a dedicated tool would be better....Wrong! I did buy a pen drilling chuck which works like a champ but I could have used some spigot jaws--if I can find them . I wish I had known about making a mandrl saver from the Oneway since I've got one on the way from Penn State. I do have some different live centers though.

[Jim Burr]

The best, most precise way is with your lathe and a chuck. Some index/starter bits and there ya go! A drill press and blank vice should be your last choice.

[Dick Mahany]

Okay I'm late to the party here, but I found that using spigot or tower type extended jaws on my Stronghold chuck gives me the ability to precisely drill blanks even when they are tapered in length and out of square. It is my only method as it works so well. I managed to salvage some Amboyna burl cut offs that were less than 0.5 " thick and yield great pen blanks on a Streamline / Roadster type pen. Just my .02$

[Stan Smith]

I discovered very quickly that you pay a price for both getting old and not spending enough time in the shop. I just drilled a blank using my new pen drilling chuck. Worked great! As I mentioned I have a mandrel saving center coming from Penn State. I was thinking that I need to make some more spacers for a mini pen and then remembered that the last pen mandrel I got has a way to shorten it. Oh well, it will still be better than using my live center. Now that I have some of these extras, I wish I had known about them years ago. Pens are what I probably turn the most of. They make nice gifts for friends and family who appreciate them.