These are drawers that'll hold ~60-80 lbs. The left side is the fron of the drawer and the drawer front is attched from the inside with 4 screws. The overall drawer size is 31 wide x 24 deep x 4 tall.
The material is 1/2" baltic birch.
These are drawers that'll hold ~60-80 lbs. The left side is the fron of the drawer and the drawer front is attched from the inside with 4 screws. The overall drawer size is 31 wide x 24 deep x 4 tall.
The material is 1/2" baltic birch.
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
Brian, I would suggest putting in 2 - #6 x 1-1/4" screws through the sides into the fronts and backs of the drawers, located to not interfere with the drawer slide screws. Predrill & countersink for these screws. It may be overkill, but these extra screws will guarantee that the drawers will not separate under load.
Bryan in Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Look alive! Here comes a buzzard! -- Pogo, by Walt Kelly
A child of five could understand this. Fetch me a child of five. -- Groucho Marx.
The joint is probably OK if the bottom is sufficient. For a drawer of that size and capacity I would use 1/2" Birch sized ti fit fairly tight and glued in place. That way the entire drawer becomes one unit and should have enough strength.
The drawer bottoms are 1/2" ply with a 3/4" x 6" solid wood piece in the center running front to back. It's set in 1/4" deep grooves. The bottom has several small glue blocks spaced around the perimeter the secure the bottoms to the sides. The solid wood piece is screwed in with 1 screw in the front and 1 in the back. The drawer slides are ball bearing slides.
I had considered putting screws in the sides but i never liked the looks. I can bury one under the slides.
What about miller dowels or pocket hole screws into the drawer front?
Maybe i'm just too paranoid......
Brian
BTW, this is my first commision piece in 15+ years and i want it to last...
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
I am assumming the dados are in the sides? It is strong except the plys of baltic can shear easily along the glue line. Your bottom is thick enough...add screws or dowels. With multiply sheet goods I perfer the Kreg Drawer...for next time.
Just drill 1/4 holes and add dowels w/ glue and saw and sand flush
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
Thanks Mark.
Yes, the dados are on the side: The member closest to you in the top pic is the side.
Can you explain the Kreg Drawer?
Thanks
Brian
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
Here you go
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=kreg+drawers
The people that tried it really like it and it is fast! The pocket holes should be in the front and back and use glue.
Originally Posted by Brian Hale
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
I agree with steve. the joint looks pretty good and I assume you used pva. IMHO screws in the side would look pretty rough. I guess it depends on where they are going.Originally Posted by Steve Cox
Mark, i can't believe i missed that tread! Thanks!!
These are storage cabinets for CD/DVD's which the customer just doubled from 2 to 4 cabinets. They're 7 drawers per cabinets.... Lots of storage!
The glue is Titebond II.
Maybe next time I'll do the Kreg Drawer
Brian
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
Brian,
You will be fine!!!! I made a similar cabinet for my CD, DVD storage
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
Brian, you don't need any reinforcement as long as you left enough stock between the dado and bottom of the drawer side. I used 1/2" baltic birch for a drawers in my workbench and the same joint you used. They are mounted with 100 lb full extension drawer slides and have held up extremely well. I left about 3/8" below the dado and used 1/2 for the drawer bottom.
Dennis
Brian,
I use this type of joint all the time on shop drawers filled with heavy items. I use 1/2" ply for the bottoms. I put a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet around the edge of the bottoms and glue them into a 1/4" by 1/4" dado in the sides, back and front. I mount them on ball-bearing glides. I've never had this joint come apart. I usually just clamp them for an hour or so -- no mechanical fasteners.
Regards,
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Bill Arnold
NRA Life Member
Member of Mensa
Live every day like it's your last, but don't forget to stop and smell the roses.
Brian,
YOU'RE NOT DONE those things yet !!! hehehe Just kidding. Having seen these in person I can tell you it is ALOT of storage, and Brian came up with a very clever design to switch between DVD and CDs and also DVD's WITH CD's. Can't wait to see finished pics. I personaly think the joint will be plenty strong. Oh and if no one else said so. NICE JOINT ! looks like a PERFECT fit. but being a machinst I would expect nothing less.
Keith
I was afraid you'd see this Keith....
No, they're not done yet. He, the customer, stopped by last saturday to give final approval and choose a stain. He walked into the shop, looked at them for a minute from a distance and said "wow, they're really BIG!" My heart sunk, i thought he didn't like them. I had visions of trying to chop 8 inches off the bottom or something. Then he walked around them, opend the drawers, closed the drawers, opened the doors in the top cabinets and closed them. Went back to the drawers, moved the dividers, rubbed the sides, felt the edges and corners, took a step back and said "you do good work, i like them" He thinks he wants 2 more!
SWMBO is getting real antsy about her china cabinet/buffet combo thingy...
Brian
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work