Epoxy vs Resin

[Jim Burr]

Respectfully Jamie...your view of resin viscosity is a bit off. If using PR Cast & Craft from Michaels or similar...it's hardly water. With a cool oil consistency, once the catalyst is added, it will harden anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. For pen casting (done on an almost daily basis) PR is warmed to accelerate an exothermic reaction...about 150 degrees. This also helps to mix colors if that is a goal. Filling voids with PR is a bad idea unless a vacuum or a pressure pot is used...the mixing of catalyst creates bubbles and can't fill voids in "worthless wood" without pressure to minimize the air bubbles. Additionally...PR shrinks...a lot! Filling molds is easy since the PR shrinks and pulls off the sides. Vacuum stabilizing with Cactus juice or similar low vac pressure stabilizer will really help with softies. Filling voids is best done by substantial vacuum in a continual pressure environment for a prolonged time.

[James Combs]

Thanks everyone for your input. I should have attached a picture to begin with. So Norm, I want to fill the obvious voids in this burl Attachment 209234I plan on using craft paper to glue all the way around the burl forming a "mold". Whatever I use I want to add color before the pour. What would you use.

Dick are you planning on turning the burl into a vessel after "molding" it? The rest of this post assumes that that is the game plan. If it were me I would rough turn it first before molding and then build a mold around the rough shape. That would save a significant amount of resin regardless of the resin type. Check out Dave Bell's "Bowl Casting 101" for a how to.

[Jamie Buxton]

Respectfully Jamie...your view of resin viscosity is a bit off. If using PR Cast & Craft from Michaels or similar...it's hardly water...

You didn't notice that I said "resin intended for fiberglassing." Resin intended for fiberglassing is set up to completely wet the fiberglass mat. It is made to wick into tiny spaces. The brands I cited really are quite fluid. That said, you're right that dunking the OP's chunk of wood in epoxy is not likely to completely fill all voids. There may be bubbles trapped inside, and there may be cavities in the wood that aren't presently open to the air. Without a vacuum system, the best he can do it is to fill the blank as best he can, turn it, and then fill any revealed holes with more resin.

[robert baccus]

2 part resins are also useful for saving weak rotten spalted wood. mix the 2 part resin and add just enough acetone to thin it somewhat. place your piece in a black VINYL bag, pour in the resin and shake it every time you walk by. i always rough off any excess wood beforehand. wait overnight and observe the ugliest chunk of wood ever. when you turn the wood you will discover the resin is only in the vessel walls and the wood looks and feels like brand new. cuts like it too. if you cut through the resin just repeat but the process is easier than describing it. you can literally do this to a roll of toilet paper if you can find any with pretty grain. good luck------------------old forester