Festool track FS 2700 (106 inches) would be long enough, or the FS 3000 (118 inches)?

[Bill Trouard]

Please help me spend my money wisely. I just can not decide, and with only a $30 difference, I'm thinking it may be wiser to get the FS 3000. I just have a Dewalt 744 table saw, so my Festool saw gets the big stuff. Even though I do not cut plywood very often or Rip rough cut lumber much over 7-8ft. I'm on the fence on weather to spend the $30 now and remove the factor of possible upgrade later. That way I can if needed instead of kicking my self on why I did not get the longer one.

If it was your money what would you get FS 2700 @ $270 or the FS 3000 @ $300? (It also seems strange that the price seems to match up with the part number)

[Chris Tsutsui]

I would get the longer one as a no brainer. Unless you have trouble storing it...

The longer the rail is, the less accurate you need to position the guide so the saw will be on the track during the entire cutting path. $30 is well worth it.

[Jason Coen]

The 118" rail can xcut on a diagonal a 4x8 sheet. The 106" rail cannot.

[Greg R Bradley]

If you have a TS55, the 106" is perfect for ripping 8'. If you want to cut angles or if you have the larger TS75 and want to do a complete cut without plunging the saw to start, you will need the longer one. If you are only going to do an angle rarely, I would consider the 106" better, even at the same price.

FWIW, I have the 55" and 75" and can tell you that joining the two gives you 130", which is too long to be ideal for ripping 8'.

I would save the money and then not feel so bad about buying a different length like 32" later.

[thomas prusak]

get two tracks and the connectors to join them together. that will open up some options for you

[Bill Trouard]

The 118" rail can xcut on a diagonal a 4x8 sheet. The 106" rail cannot.

I did not realize that. I think you just helped me make up my mind. Now how to store this thing with out damaging it. I understand it ships in a wooden box though, maybe that can be used for storing it also.

[Greg Portland]

If it was your money what would you get FS 2700 @ $270 or the FS 3000 @ $300? (It also seems strange that the price seems to match up with the part number)

Having some overhang on 8' cuts is very nice; both guides on the saw are fully on the rail so you'll always get a straight cut @ the start and end. For cutting diagonals on an 8x4 sheet I connect a shorter rail to the FS3000, again to get the overhang.

[johnny means]

Food for thought. The Makita track is identical and cost substantially less.

[Craig Michael]

Please help me spend my money wisely. I just can not decide, and with only a $30 difference, I'm thinking it may be wiser to get the FS 3000. I just have a Dewalt 744 table saw, so my Festool saw gets the big stuff. Even though I do not cut plywood very often or Rip rough cut lumber much over 7-8ft. I'm on the fence on weather to spend the $30 now and remove the factor of possible upgrade later. That way I can if needed instead of kicking my self on why I did not get the longer one.

If it was your money what would you get FS 2700 @ $270 or the FS 3000 @ $300? (It also seems strange that the price seems to match up with the part number)

As Johnny said, get the makita track. The makita track will work exactly the same as the festool with either TS festool saw. The makita has an extra aluminum lip for the makita saws anti tip feature but that doesn't affect the festool saw on the makita track. The lip would affect some of the router accessories and parallel guides. But you could just trim off that lip with your TS and it would be exactly the same as the festool.

When I have my next project for 8' sheet goods, I'm getting the long makita track for use with my TS 55. Right now I connect two festool tracks.

[Bill Trouard]

As Johnny said, get the makita track. The makita track will work exactly the same as the festool with either TS festool saw. The makita has an extra aluminum lip for the makita saws anti tip feature but that doesn't affect the festool saw on the makita track. The lip would affect some of the router accessories and parallel guides. But you could just trim off that lip with your TS and it would be exactly the same as the festool.

I had seen other post stating that the Festool saw would work on the makita track. The fact that I plan on purchasing a Festool 1400 EQ next month and planned on ordering the Festool parallel guides when I purchased the rail ruled the makita track out.

[Craig Michael]

I had seen other post stating that the Festool saw would work on the makita track. The fact that I plan on purchasing a Festool 1400 EQ next month and planned on ordering the Festool parallel guides when I purchased the rail ruled the makita track out.

I'm not sure which forum it was, festool owners group or Journal of light construction, but on one someone purchased the makita and trimmed off the lip. They posted a few pictures, etc. They said it took no time at all. Just a thought.

[johnny means]

Another option is a shorter rail and a couple of connectors. That's what I did. I bought an extra 55" rail with the shelf holes and two connectors, giving me 110" capacity. My reasoning was that my tools often end up as checked baggage and only a fool would check a 10' long rail. Bagage handlers can barely move a leather suitcase with out snapping it in two. I also feel better about throwing two short rails in my truck or car, and having them around the shop or job site. And, yes, you can achieve dead straight cuts with two joined rails.

[Jerome Hanby]

Do you have any problems with the joined rails? I was all set to buy another 55' and the connectors and ran across some comment about the setup not working well. My PSI PPS has two rails that hook up using the most KISS arrangement I can imagine and that works fine...

Another option is a shorter rail and a couple of connectors. That's what I did. I bought an extra 55" rail with the shelf holes and two connectors, giving me 110" capacity. My reasoning was that my tools often end up as checked baggage and only a fool would check a 10' long rail. Bagage handlers can barely move a leather suitcase with out snapping it in two. I also feel better about throwing two short rails in my truck or car, and having them around the shop or job site. And, yes, you can achieve dead straight cuts with two joined rails.

[Craig Michael]

Do you have any problems with the joined rails? I was all set to buy another 55' and the connectors and ran across some comment about the setup not working well. My PSI PPS has two rails that hook up using the most KISS arrangement i can imagine and that works fine...

I use a 5' level to align the two. I have the two 55" now too and it works fine. For my needs, I think I would like the long rail in addition so I can have one long and at least one short to make my cuts. Having to reconnect them slows me down a bit. But as far as accuracy, it works fine.

[johnny means]

+1 on using a straight edge two align the rails. Sure it's an extra step, but IMO it's easier than dealing with a 10" rail that always has to be babies. I might feel differently if it was only for shop work and my shop was designed around the track saw as the primary saw.

Another thing that I thought about was that I've even worked in residences where I couldn't get anything ten feet long in the door.