Which is the better method - Hollow Chisel Mortiser or Leigh FMT Pro for MT Joints

[Alan Lightstone]

As the title says. I'm getting more serious with my furniture building. Not happy with the Drill Press/chisel and Tenoning jig option for mortise/tenon joinery.

I'm been debating either getting a Hollow Chisel Mortiser, (something like the Powermatic PM701) or buying the Leigh FMT Pro and using a router.

What do people think?

[Jamie Buxton]

Neither. A plunge router does a fine job of mortising. Unlike the other two, it is also useful for many other things too.

[Nasar Azam]

Dowelmax does it the easy way !

[Rod Sheridan]

I use a hollow chisel mortiser.

I've also used a slot mortiser.

The hollow chisel mortiser makes rectangular mortises, which makes the tenon fabrication easy.

A slot mortiser of course makes mortices with rounded ends, the tenons need rounded ends or use loose tenons.

The hollow chisel mortiser is quiet, and can make deep mortises, something useful for building door construction.

I don't like routers so I don't own one.

Regards, Rod.

[Paul McGaha]

Just my $.02 but I think a hollow chisel mortiser is the easiest way to make mortises. That's what I have and no thoughts to do it any other way. It's easy, makes the mortises well, not a lot of dust or noise, pretty small footprint, reasonable cost (especially for a benchtop model).

I have the Powermatic PM-719. It's a floor machine with a non tilting table. Had it 7 or 8 years now.

I've noticed his subject comes up for discussion from time to time.

PHM

[Charles Robertson]

I have the PM 719-T. By far my favorite. I've used the drill press and chisel, router jigs, drill press mortise attachment, Jet benchtop and now my floor model PM. Each one was a step up. In my opinion, save yourself some time and effort, go to a bench top or floor model. I whole heartedly agree with Rod and Paul.
CAR

[Brian Krause]

On a similar note, which method is best to make large mortises (1.5" x 3" x 3-4" deep), say for a workbench?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brian, I would suggest a hollow chisel mortiser or the drill/chisel approach for a mortise of that size.

You may find that a combination of the two methods works best...............Rod.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Brian,
I built a Benchcrafted Roubo bench last summer. I used my PM 719T hollow chisel mortiser for all the mortises. It did an outstanding job. The key to this machine or any hollow chisel mortiser, in my humble opinion, is to make sure the chisels are really sharp. Some of the mortises on that bench are 1" wide and were "through mortises" in the legs which were 3+" thick. I just used a router to make slip tenons/mortises for some chairs I'm building for SWMBO. Both methods work, both are useful and neither seems to be the "only" method I would use.
Tom

[Jamie Buxton]

...A slot mortiser of course makes mortices with rounded ends, the tenons need rounded ends or use loose tenons.... .

No. What holds the M&T joint together is glue. Glue on the tenon cheeks does the job. You can use tenons with rectangular cross-section in mortises cut by a slot mortiser or a router.

[John TenEyck]

Nothing cuts mortises cleaner or faster than a router. If you use loose tenons the fit will be perfect to the mortises, with no tweaking, shaving, whatever which often (read always) is required with tenons cut on the ends of stock. After looking at the cost of the FMT and other router based machines, I built my own slot mortiser for less than $50 which serves about 90% of my needs. Can't do 4 inch deep ones with it, but can't remember the last time I needed to make one that deep.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

No offense guys....it's really just a matter of personal preference.

I use a GI benchtop mortiser. I chose it above other brands for several reasons (1) It has a more substantial holddown system than most of the other benchtop mortisers and (2) It tilts.f

[Stan Mitchell]

I have the PM701 and it's a dandy. Very smooth, quiet, and easy to use. It's mounted to the stand that Powermatic offers with some 3" casters on each leg.

Mortisers don't often get used daily, but because it's on wheels, I just tuck it into a corner when not in use, and wheel it out when needed.

[Brian Krause]

Tom and Rod, thanks for the advice. I have used my hollow chisel mortiser pretty extensively for smaller mortises, but I was not sure how it would fare on larger through mortises. That is why I was considering trying out the forstner bit/chisel or router method for this bench. Tom, when you used the HCM to make the big mortises, did you flip the board and mortise from the front and back to meet in the middle? Thanks again.
Brian

[Rod Sheridan]

No. What holds the M&T joint together is glue. Glue on the tenon cheeks does the job. You can use tenons with rectangular cross-section in mortises cut by a slot mortiser or a router.

Yes Jamie, that's true in many applications, however I often make through mortices for either structural purposes (No glue, just wedged) or for cosmetic purposes (Arts & Crafts).

I do agree that in most applications the glue holds the joint together, however I still foolishly like a good fitting joint so a square tenon in a radiused mortise wouldn't be my choice.

Regards, Rod.