I use a triton 3 hp for many pannel using
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/6-Pc-...uctinfo/06001/
I am very happy & works #1
Ray
I use a triton 3 hp for many pannel using
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/6-Pc-...uctinfo/06001/
I am very happy & works #1
Ray
RIP_Ray
"Ceci est un hobby, c'est pas supposé "faire de sens".
Outsourcing certainly seems like the way to go for many shops these days. I know I can't build a door for as little as I can buy it for. On the other hand I can make custom doors pretty easily with no wait. If I mess something up, something is damaged, or I need something no one offers, I can always just make it up! Not to mention being able to make up custom moldings, and all the other things shapers are good for. I build a lot of different products though, so I have to stay flexible. I just finished a job consisting of 15 - 2-1/4" thick, 3 panel interior doors. I then had to turn around and make cabinet doors with a similar scaled down bolection molding. No problem, sent a drawing to my knife guy, he made the knives, and I quickly shaped the moldings for the cabinet doors
Anyway different strokes for different folks. Use what works best for you, and if you find the need you can always pick up a shaper down the road. I do think though that once you get one, you'll wonder how you ever managed without
good luck,
JeffD
I think ats a smart move Kenneth. Shaper kicks routers butt.....news at 11:00. A shaper is just part of a door program, though and for speed they work better in three's, or in the large programable type. To make doors quickly you need to mill stock, dimension, shape, sand, glue, sand, hand sand, sand.....well it's way more than just shaping. You can pull off a few doors or a home kitchen on a good router table, but for business it's crazy talk IMO. There are lots of good door specialists regional and national. Till your volume dictates you become a specialist, it might make more sense to skip it and use e phone to make doors.
When building built-in cabinets, you can really increase the volume of a small shop by outsourcing the doors & drawer boxes. Most larger shops do this as well. The thing that really sets your shop apart from the rest is the finishing anyway, so it is better to spend time finishing and let someone else do the grunt work.
The downside to outsourcing is you lose control of color and grain matching. Seems like panel matching is done by a person with a white cane. Truthfully most probably don't notice until you point it out. Dave
If it's going to be painted, most people wouldn't waste their time matching the grain. Some, of course, would. When we visited the Fryburg plant in Ohio, they had a lazer set up with an electronic control , on a workbench. There was a fence on the table which the first stave was pushed against and the width of the panel was puched in digitally and the laser moved to show how wide the finished panel would be. Staves were then selected from the batch to form the most pleasing grain and color orientataion possible with the stock of wood at hand. Most people just look for the cheapest door they can find, which is not really the best option.
You can get more creative with the wood when you build your own doors, but this is usually a waste of time because the average customer really doesn't care and doesn't know the difference. For instance, for those people who build their own doors usually do so with a cheap cope and stick joint, and the customer never knows it's not a mortice & tenon joint. Of course if you are a famous woodworker charging upwards of a million dollars for one piece, you better make your own door and it better be good.
Cope and stick is every bit as reliable as mortise and tenon for kitchen cabinet doors. I have NEVER seen a quality cope and stick joint fail in a kitchen cabinet door. Kitchen cabinets are not fine furniture; they are meant to be torn out a replaced every 10-20 years.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I have never seen a good quality cope & stick joint fail either. Obviously, of all the ones I have seen that failed, they were all poor quality joints.
Yes, sad to say, in this world where everybody is jumping up on a soap box and preaching GREEN, most maufacturers are still building cabinets that need to be replaced in 10 years.
Last edited by Moses Yoder; 11-23-2011 at 1:14 PM.
If I had to go about my job with that as my mantra, I would sell my tools and be a greeter at WallMart. Sucks for you if that is how you feel. I do not know of a house I built, or a cabinet job I have done that has been replaced or remodeled. I try to do work that will be restored, not replaced.
Most of my doors are mortice and tenon, but some are cope and stick, depends on the depth of the pockets.
One thing I do sub out is drawer boxes. There is nothing more boring for me than making and finishing drawer boxes. I buy them from Keystone Specialties, always perfect, on time, and an awesome finish. And I don't have to do it.
Couldn't have said it better. (Though I love building drawers. )
FWIW, these aren't kitchen cabinets. Regardless, my professional and moral integrity prohibits me from approaching any project with a lackadaisical attitude. It may be the 100th cabinet of the year for me, but it's the only one my customer is going to see day in and day out.
I'll never forget being out an install job in my teens and hearing the trim carpenter remark, "Caulk and paint makes a trim man what he ain't!" My boss didn't laugh or smile, he just shook his head. Reaching a level at which a layperson couldn't tell the difference between how it should be done and how it actually was, is not my finish line. I'll know, and I refuse to have my abilities associated with sub-par work.
This wasn't directed at anyone, but rather at an attitude I see too often. That attitude, that mindset, is the very line that separates "professionals" from craftsmen and women.
Last edited by Kenneth Crisler; 11-23-2011 at 8:04 PM.
Jeff,
Got to love that M12. I should have a shaper by now and I know it. But that Hitachi just won't quit. Its in its fourth router table and 18th year. It only cost $180.00 at Woodworker's Warehouse. I was so impressed I bought a back up for another $180.00. The first is still running and the back up is still waiting.