I made my maple butcherblock tops...

[Tom Hammond]

one long-grain and one end grain. They look great. HOWEVER... after I got them all glued up and sanded and ready to oil up, I hear that Titebond is NOT the right glue to use? I know there's II and III but I've never used them and don't know anythign about them. Have I just wasted all my hours, material and money???

[Jim Becker]

Titebond III is not a bad choice for this...when cured, it will not dissolve in water. Titebond II is water resistant, but not to the degree that Titebond III is. Frankly, I only use Titebond III these days.

[John McClanahan]

If you treat the cutting boards with mineral oil, that will make it water resistant. Just don't soak them in water. Rinse and dry off.

I have a cutting board that I made in high school shop class back in the early 1970's that was glued with common wood glue. It is still in one piece.

John

[Mike Heidrick]

BTW - by the gallon, my Lowes does not know that the titebond 3 is different than titebond 1 so you save about $15 - tag for 1 and 3 have the same price . YMMV.

[Doug Morgan]

I use Titebond III over Gorilla glue. The specs on Titebond III and the reviews are very good.

[Jeff Bartley]

I mix walnut oil with beeswax for the final coat on all the cutting boards I make. I also use this mixture to maintain the water resistance of the boards. 60/40 oil/wax works best for me. Mineral oil also works, I just like walnut oil better. For future projects I'd definitely use Titebond III if given a choice, but the Titebond Extend (a II) is nice for big glue-ups.