Shelf pin jig

[ed vitanovec]

What are you all using as a jig to drill shelf pin holes, do you like your jig?
Thanks!
Ed

[Van Huskey]

I use a hardboard shop made jig, works fine but I don't need it often. I have a friend with the Festool router based system, very pricy but works well especially if you already have a Festool router. Another friend uses the Lee Valley jig which I have used it and it is excellent but also not cheap. I know there are a lot of cheaper versions but I think it is so easy to make a jig and even add metal inserts if you use it a lot that I don't see the value in the cheap versions.

[Dennis Puskar]

1/4" peg board.

[Dan Rude]

I have the Rockler, like it a lot. I've been using it to convert 2 shelf college dorm book cases (They were solid wood and cost only $5) to multiple shelf ones and it works great.

[Jerome Hanby]

Mine is MDF drilled with a line of holes on 1" centers, sized to accept one of my router templates. I set the depth, clamp on the guide, and plunge my holes. Move to the other side and repeat. I have a piece of dowel sized to fit in the holes to extend the length if I need a longer line of holes. I use a 1/4" bit for just pins or a 9/32" bit is I'm using sleeves (usually). One of these days I'll build another one like this one but with an adjustable "fences" to catch the top/bottom and side for alignment. The 'fences" would be thick enough to work with either side of the template so I could just flip it over to do the second row of holes...

[Phil Thien]

I started with the Rockler. I didn't like the limited length and the slippery plastic.

Now I have made a bunch of my own. 1/4" thick hardboard, 3/8" holes drilled 1-1/4" on center, 1-1/4" from the front edge of the board.

The Rockler bit that came with their jig was not sharp. It tears the veneer out something awful. I found a cheap ($5 on sale, I think) Woodcraft-brand bit that leaves beautiful holes.

[David Hawxhurst]

i made one of these http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchi...23holejig.html
mines only half as long.

[scott vroom]

Ed, I use the Lee Valley jig; it's under $200 and fairly easy to set up. Still, as with other jigs, you have to bore one hole at a time, a tedious task on large jobs. I've been looking at one of the line boring machines like the General pictured below to improve shop productivity (around $1,500 to $1,700).

[Jeff Monson]

I built the same one David did. Only took me an hour or so to make, works very well. I get much better results with a router than the drill press.

[Don Wacker]

I just use one of these mounted in a little piece of angle aluminum clamped to my drill press fence. Drill hole, lift handle slide wood over spring loaded pin drops in hole, drill hole, lift handle............................................ ...

[Don Wacker]

For alot of drilling in long panels not yet assembled. Just drill a 1/4" counter sunk threaded hole in your router plate on the router side and a second one as and edge guide. Install a 1/4 screw in each hole. So basically two holes one at 12 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock or there about to get the right edge spacing. Drill first hole, drop 12 o'clock pin in hole and twist 3 o'clock pin against panel edge and plunge.

Don

[Jerome Hanby]

i made one of these http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchi...23holejig.html
mines only half as long.

That's basically like mine except I left the hole intact. Mine makes sure I'm lined up correctly, but those half hole would never see the collar get stuck!

[glenn bradley]

I have the Rockler and dislike it. It is too thin and the plastic melts using their bit once you get to hole 8 or so. The bolts that hold the fence on do not sit flush so you have to deal with that for any but, outside referenced placement. I plan to use it as a template and make a hardboard one. In general I would recommend a thicker one of phenolic or some such.

[Craig Michael]

Make yourself a homemade version of one of these, http://megproducts.com/shelfpinholes.html You can make it out of 1/2 finish plywood, aluminum or some type of Plexiglas type material. Uses a plunge router to make super clean holes, all holes are the exact same height and it is very quick to use. I skipped the de sta co clamps and just use quick clamps.

[Larry Frank]

As David and Jeff said, I used the same WWA jig that they mention. Note that it uses a router to "drill" the holes. I used one to do all the shelf holes in 14 feet of upper and lower cabinets. It was fast and accurate plus the router bit left very clean holes in my prefinished cabinet sides.

It took me a little while to make the jig but it was well worth it.