Deck Design Discussion

[Dan Mages]

Hello All. I am wondering if anyone has any objections to discussing the design for the new deck that I plan on building this spring.

Dan

[Jamie Buxton]

Look at the logo: "Sawmill Creek, woodworkers forum". Is your deck made of wood? Then go for it!

[Jim Becker]

Go for it, Dan!! That should be an interesting discussion because it involves both structural and athsetic design elements. Many of us do both "in the shop" and "in the house" woodworking and can benefit from such discussion.

[Dan Mages]

First, let me give you a little orientation

Picture 1.

The landing will be torn out and the bushes cut down. The deck will span from the left side of the door to the right side of the window. To the left of the deck is the a/c unit, the water spigot, and a below grade patio. Under the deck is a small window for the never used basement bathroom and the dryer vent. To the right of the deck is the electric meter. All of the lines run underground. This picture is taken facing north.



Picture 2.
This is a picture of the back yard from the landing. This picture is taken facing south.


Deck plans
The new deck will be 16'x16'. The elevation is 5'8" The stairs will run along the left side of the deck and will start 8 feet from the house. The stairs will be 4' wide and will span 8' (estimated). I am considering planters and benches on the west (left) and south (bottom) walls of the deck. At the end of each deck will be a planter with storage underneath. Above the west and wouth sides will be a trelice that will extend 4' or 5' over both sides of the deck. The trelice will provide shade from the sun and will provide some protection for the stairs.



Construction.
I am planning on having 2 rows of posts starting at 8' and 15' from the wall. each row will have 3 posts evenly spaced across the width of the deck. The deck joists will be spaced 12" oc for extra stability. Here are some of the other specs

10" concrete piers
2"x10" ledgers and joists
2"x12" beams
4x6 or 6x6 posts

The decking materials and the railings are still under consideration. I am considering having the posts on the inside of the deck with aluminum balusters and a flat top rail. I would like ipe or another tropical hardwoods, but it may be out my budget. My neighbor had a door built for his shed from "yute cedar". It is beautiful stuff and looks a bit like Mahogany. I dont know much about it yet, but it is supposed to be around the same price as pt pine.

Comments? Ideas? did I forget anything?

Dan

[Jim Becker]

Dan, the one thing you want to find out "now" is where those underground utilities are as they can affect your planning process. Otherwise, your general design is not unlike the deck I built at my previous residence including height. I do suggest you use 6-by for your posts and beams as I found them to be way stronger and steadier when I built that deck...and dont' forget that your piers need to be below the frost line. Where you are, that's deep!

You may want to consider making those planters mobile for easier maintenance of both the deck and the planters, too. I find the built-in seating, etc., on our present deck to be difficult to clean and maintain, too.

[Randy Moore]

Better check with your city/county on building codes and permits. Unless you are like me and say the heck with them and do it at night and weekends with alot of help. City comes by and says something about your deck...."It has been here for several years, just pressure washed and stain/sealed/ waterproofed it.


Randy

[Jamie Buxton]

Why are you designing an elevated deck? If the deck were a step above grade, you could step off it directly into the yard. You'd save some on materials -- no tall posts, and no railing around the deck. You'd also have more privacy from the neighbors, instead of being up where everybody can watch you.

[Jim Becker]

Better check with your city/county on building codes and permits.

Good point...when I was selling my previous home, I had to prove that I had pulled a permit and that the inspections were done...the home inspector that was working on behalf of the buyer was being a pain in the butt about certain things. The permit totally rebutted his ascertions and knocked it off the list of things to spend money on. (it was the only thing that could have been expensive!)

[Dan Mages]

Why are you designing an elevated deck? If the deck were a step above grade, you could step off it directly into the yard. You'd save some on materials -- no tall posts, and no railing around the deck. You'd also have more privacy from the neighbors, instead of being up where everybody can watch you.

If you look under the door in the first picture, you will see a window behind the lattice. Due to the window, I need to provide easy egress and that eliminates the possible ground level deck. I am planning on a 16'x10' paver patio as the landing for the deck.

I do suggest you use 6-by for your posts and beams as I found them to be way stronger and steadier when I built that deck...and dont' forget that your piers need to be below the frost line. Where you are, that's deep!

You may want to consider making those planters mobile for easier maintenance of both the deck and the planters, too. I find the built-in seating, etc., on our present deck to be difficult to clean and maintain, too.

The piers will need to be 40 or 48" below grade, according to local code. This is the one part of the job that I will contract out.

I was thinking about making the planters as the corner posts for the deck. This will also provide better support for the trellice. I'm thinking about using removable plastic potters to make it easier to maintain.

Better check with your city/county on building codes and permits. Unless you are like me and say the heck with them and do it at night and weekends with alot of help. City comes by and says something about your deck...."It has been here for several years, just pressure washed and stain/sealed/ waterproofed it.

That is a given. As much as I despise the local politburo's building dept, I will apply for all permits needed for this job. The last thing I need is those on my back.

Dan

[Erin Stringer]

I did pavers at my house for the backyard gathering place but if I had done a deck I definitely would have used TREX or another brand of the composite wood. I believe it is more expensive up front but the first time you have to power wash, scrape, and re-stain it will almost be paid for with time and $$. I know 2 friends that have used it and are totally pleased with the result after 4-5 years of use.

[Randy Moore]

Dan,

If you have a Home Owners Association you got to satisfy them too.

Randy

[Jamie Buxton]

If you look under the door in the first picture, you will see a window behind the lattice. Due to the window, I need to provide easy egress and that eliminates the possible ground level deck.

Dan

I don't get it. The window sill looks to be at least a foot above grade. If your deck is at the level of the sill or lower, you have egress.

[Erin Stringer]

[/QUOTE] Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by Dan Mages
If you look under the door in the first picture, you will see a window behind the lattice. Due to the window, I need to provide easy egress and that eliminates the possible ground level deck.

Dan
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

I don't get it. The window sill looks to be at least a foot above grade. If your deck is at the level of the sill or lower, you have egress.

How would you get from the door down to the deck without blocking the windows? I think that is the main problem with a low deck in this situation.

[Jamie Buxton]

How would you get from the door down to the deck without blocking the windows? I think that is the main problem with a low deck in this situation.[/QUOTE]

There is egress through that window now, right? That is, the existing stairs do not block the windows. So that's one way. Alternatively, the stairs could go straight out from the house.

[Dave Richards]

Dan, is this it?

Still need to add railings.

Oops, I missed the third planter and the trellises. And is what I drew as a bench supposed to be higher to be the top part of your trellis?