Member
Beautiful work. This is why I love this forum. As a new amateur hobbyist I'm exposed to craftsmanship of this caliber on a routine basis. Just seeing something like that is inspiring. Thank you for sharing your craft and please continue to post to this forum. When I see work like that I have a goal to aspire to. And even though I may never reach that level, I'm motivated to keep making sawdust and improve my meager skills.
Ron Robinson
Moderator
Outstanding work, Rob. Welcome!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
Welcome to SMC. Really great work. I look forward to your future contributions.
Mike
"The only real valuable thing is intuition." - <CITE>Albert Einstein</CITE>
Member
Hi Rob, Very, very nice work. The attention to detail is exceptional. The hardware looks interesting. What is your source for that?
take care,
John
Contributor
Rob,
Welcome to this very friendly home for woodworkers of all skill levels. The only imporatnt rule here is cordiality, and it is uniformly observed. I have seen this piece you posted before and it is, of course, up to your usual standards, as is the photography of this fine piece.
From what I know of your methods of work, I suspect that you will land most often in the knuckle dragging section of the forum, and we will welcome you over there as well.
For those who do not know Rob's work or methods, he makes wonderful use of hand tools, and only little use of electron consuming tools. He is a finisher's finisher as well, and quite knowledgable in the art of coloring wood by a variety of methods.
Welcome aboard, and I hope you will feel free to share some of your other work with the SMC crowd.
Alan Turner
Philadelphia Furniture Workshop
In Memoriam
Great Work and Great Design. And if Tyler approves, it must be good.
18th century nut --- Carl
Member
Rob,
Thank you for joining us here at SMC....the pleasure is certainly ours. Your work is spectacular and exceptional!!
As a rookie hand tool enthusiast, I eagerly await your expertise in WW. So, without hesitation--
Please tell us about your joinery on this table, and how you fit a drawer???
Contributor
Fantastic! You are at a level that I hope to one day obtain. Thank-you for sharing it with us.
[OP]
Member
The sides, back, bottom rail and lower drawer rail are tenoned into the leg posts. The top drawer rail is dovetailed to the leg post. The bottom board is "captured" in a groove run near the bottom edge of the sides and back and glued to the lower front rail. The top board in the tambour section is screwed to the drawer runners. There is a partition in the tambour section to prevent items stored in there, from fouling the tambour as it opens, this partition is housed in stopped dados. The drawer is joined with standard half lap dovetails at the front and through ones at the rear.Originally Posted by Roy Wall
I fit a drawer in what I guess is the universal way. I first plane the front to fit for height and then saw it to length for a tight fit. Using a No.9 miter plane and a shooting board, I remove the saw marks and this will automatically give the proper side clearance. The side are then planed to the same height as the front and cross cut to the proper length, grooved for the bottom and the dovetails cut.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Rob Millard
Contributor
photos!
Howard
Howard Rosenberg
Member
Member
Rob...welcome to the creek!!!
Folks, I've long admired Rob's work on a couple of other places I drop in too, and we are in for a real treat. His work is always impecable and an inspiration to me.
Member
welcome rob
very nice seymour piece! beautiful inlay and nice carving on the legs. It is really hard to improve on his (seymour's ) work! One can only hope to do it justice by the copy, which you have.
Question about the photography.. What type of resolution are you using ( xxx meg pixal bla bla bla ). I am also new to this site and want to begin posting some pictures of my work. Your photos seem very good.
thanks
lou
[OP]
Member
I use a Nikon D-70 ( 6 Mega Pixel) with a Sigma 24-70 f2.8 lens and a circular polarizer. The shutter speed is very slow ( about 1 second ) because the f stop is fairly high at about f 11. The photos were taken in the RAW mode, edited and saved as a high quality JPEG. These photos were then run through Photoshop Elements 2.0 using the "Save for web" feature. Here I reduced the the quality, and the height/width, so they would display quickly and fit the screen not requiring any scrolling. For web based photos, you don't need a 6 Mega Pixel DSLR, I made perfectly acceptable photos with a 3.3 MP Minolta. What is important, is to have a camera that will accept filters, and will give you control over the f stop, so you can get enough depth of field to have the entire piece in focus.
I have attached a photo of the “studio” set up used to take the photos. This photo was originally 5.7 MB and 3008x2000 pixels and is now 451x300 ( 15% of full size) and only 25.7 KB.
I agree the Seymour pieces are the pinnacle, but today they are much easier to make then when they originally did them.
Thanks
Rob Millard
[OP]
Member
The customer supplied the drawer pulls, which are an exact match to the one on the original shown in the New Mussey book on Seymour furniture, but those pulls themselves are replaced. These pulls are are typical of the hardware sold by Londonderry Brass and the code 4 hardware from White Chapel, so he must have obtained them from one of those two suppliers. The tambour knob and side handles were things I purchased from Lodonderry. Their hardware is the best of the best and except for rare exceptions the only hardware I use.
Thanks
Rob Millard
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote