Work bench top cantelever. Why?

[Ron Bontz]

Well this is probably another one of my many silly questions. But. In anticipation of building a whole new work bench,I was changing my existing work bench around to accommodate a Jorgeson vise. In 25 years I have not had a real woodworking vise. It's about time, I think. So I slid the top over 12" so I would have an 18" overhang instead of just 6". That increased the over all length to about 84". (Trying out the size) I noticed after installing the vise that the screw and guides actually were at least 1 1/2" below the top. Other than the top 4" for screw and guide clearance why are many of the bench cabinets so much shorter than the tops. It seems like a waste of valuable storage space. If I were to build a modified shaker or rubo bench, what reason would there be to extend the top so far beyond the cabinet base?

[Joe A Faulkner]

One explanation I read somewhere, is that the catelevered overhang, especially if your bench is in the 22 - 24 inch width, allows for lots of clamping options for working and or assembling cases/carcass frames.

If you haven't looked at Joe Leigh's post on his bench, you need to check it out.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...aker+workbench

[glenn bradley]

If you're asking why the clearance between the underside of the bench and the top of any storage below; for me it is access. I built one set of cabinets taller to get more storage. The exchange is no ability to reach under the top in that area. I built the next set lower and this works much better for me. I want to replace the tall ones later on. Being able to pass clamps through, attach things from underneath and retrieve the inevitable lost piece of something that slipped through a dog hole are all of value to me. I also set items that come into repeated use during one session or anther there. For example in the pic there is a green vinyl mat, some butcher paper and a rag from a previous operation. Next time it might be a dead blow mallet, a bench hook or a parts tray fro smaller items I am assembling. YMMV.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Other than the top 4" for screw and guide clearance why are many of the bench cabinets so much shorter than the tops.

To permit clearance for holdfasts. They may have only recently regained popularity among contemporary woodworkers, but traditionally, ever kind of woodworking trade used them, regardless of what kind of bench they used.

[Jim Newman]

You cantilever bench tops past the legs so the moments of inertia balance. There is a formula for this....about 0.2 times the length is the rough figure for the weight on one side of the leg to offset or balance the weight on the other side. As far as storage space under the bench, I have noticed the pros don't do that for the most part as it vastly limits your work holding and working capability to run clamps easily under the bench. In essence, the bench is to hold and work wood with and not to store tools. That being said, lots of people put cabinets under their bench and if they work wood enough tend to get away from it eventually....but there are always exceptions to the rule! I have been designing a bench for 17 years now (life got in the way...started a business, got divorced, had to raise kids on my own) and was going to do cabinets under my bench for about 12 of those years. I have evolved to understand it really is about holding the work in 3 dimensions (flat, sides, ends) to be able to work them for joints, or put a profile or build them up in some way. I will put a shelf above my stretchers, but that will be it for me. There is no right way, just what works for you though, so the journey is what's fun about it! Merry Christmas!

[Stuart Tierney]

Just speaking for myself, I've got stuff that needs attention on the bottom side of the bench so often, I'd go nuts if I couldn't access it freely. I figure I'd need about 12" or so, minimum. Holdfasts, clamps, dogs, pipe clamps under the bench sometimes, etc, etc.

I'd love to put some cabinets under there though. Maybe I'll do that some day. Maybe I'll just get some cheap and nasty flat pack stuff to do it because I just don't have the time to actually MAKE cabinets for under there.

I only recently bought myself a proper vise recently, then picked up a couple more for cheap. Before that, I made my own out of some high tensile rods, a pipe or three, a jack screw from a scaffold, so flat plate and angle iron and a few malleable iron pipe fittings. It's not perfect, but it works.

Stu.

[Prashun Patel]

An interesting compromise would be to make a base cabinet unit that is positioned under the cantilever, but is not attached to the top; it is attached only to the side of of the existing cabinet, and leaves 6" clearance between its top and the bottom of the benchtop. This will allow clamping and would afford more storage.

Personally, I keep a smaller trashcan under my cantilvered end. It suits the way I work, since planing dust and debris are easily swept into it.

[Ron Bontz]

Well see. I told you it was a silly question. Now I know. Prashun, Your "compromise" was exactly what I was thinking of. My bench will be accessible from both sides though. My current drawers (boxes) slide out from either side. The current bench for what it is worth is 84" x 30" with a 72"L x 28" wide cabinet underneath. Thank you to every one for their thoughts on this. Have a happy holiday.

[Jim Matthews]

Well see. I told you it was a silly question. Now I know. Prashun, Your "compromise" was exactly what I was thinking of. My bench will be accessible from both sides though. My current drawers (boxes) slide out from either side. The current bench for what it is worth is 84" x 30" with a 72"L x 28" wide cabinet underneath. Thank you to every one for their thoughts on this. Have a happy holiday.

That's a big bench. Bigger bench tops just mean more stuff out of the drawers, for me.
I think a better measure of the bench would be if you can walk around it in the dark.

I augment a smaller bench top with an auxiliary stand - the largest board I can swing around in my shop is 7 feet.
Larger than that and I can't get it upstairs anyway.

[Jim Koepke]

Other than the top 4" for screw and guide clearance why are many of the bench cabinets so much shorter than the tops. It seems like a waste of valuable storage space. If I were to build a modified shaker or rubo bench, what reason would there be to extend the top so far beyond the cabinet base?

It seems like there are two questions being asked.

One inquires about the room between the bottom of the bench top and any cabinets. This is fairly well answered by people using hold fasts or a place of temporary tool storage while working.

The second part of the question seem to be about the extension of the bench top beyond any cabinets or legs. This area can be used in many ways. One reason is to allow for curved pieces or partially assembled items to be in a vise with some of the item being under the bench. Another is one I use a lot, with the face vise being outside of the leg, it allows something to be in the vise and clamped to the leg for extra stability when needed.

At times, for me at the end vise, it is nice to have legs flush with the vise chop. Since this isn't the case with my bench, I have made a spacer with dowels to put in place when extra stability needed for large items.

Everyone has different needs. That is why there are so many designs for benches.

jtk

[Jim Neeley]

I have space under each end of my bench and after reading Prashun's post (thanks, Prashun! ) am planning a castered waste can under the tail end and either a castered sharpening station or trash/sharpening combo station under the face end.

I've got to think through immobilizing the castered sharpening station when in use but it would sure be handy to have it so nearby!

Jim

[John Coloccia]

I always assumed it was to make mounting vises easier. You don't have to worry about notching out the truss for the specific vice you intend to mount.

Another excellent reason is to put a leg somewhere under the center of the bench so you have a solid place to hammer on when you are mortising. It would be inconvenient to hammer over a leg when the leg is at the edge.

It also reduces your unsupported span. On a 9' bench, you would have 9' of bench top just begging to sag and otherwise be "springy" when hammering, rather than having 3 shorter unsupported spans. It's a far sturdier way to build if you're interested in a top that stays flat and is solid.

[Jim Koepke]

I've got to think through immobilizing the castered sharpening station when in use but it would sure be handy to have it so nearby!

There are locking casters that would keep it where you put it until you want to move it.

I tend to keep cardboard boxes around my bench for shavings and scraps. They are great when I want to light a fire.

jtk

[Sean Richards]

Another excellent reason is to put a leg somewhere under the center of the bench so you have a solid place to hammer on when you are mortising. It would be inconvenient to hammer over a leg when the leg is at the edge.

It also reduces your unsupported span. On a 9' bench, you would have 9' of bench top just begging to sag and otherwise be "springy" when hammering, rather than having 3 shorter unsupported spans. It's a far sturdier way to build if you're interested in a top that stays flat and is solid.

I have got 4 legs on the front of an 8 foot bench - its got a 10" apron, a 2" top and is nice and solid. The extra legs do reduce any tendency for "springy-ness" and are also great for clamping stuff to - sort of non-sliding deadmen.