As a relative newcomer to planes I have struggled with my technique. I am very much in the mode of “the more I learn, I realize the less I know”. For some time I have been trying to eliminate my smoother tracks. I got to where I could get a nice polished surface on the wood, and couldn’t really feel the tracks, but they were plainly visible. I use the Veritas Mark II guide and initially tried to get a camber by just putting more pressure on the corners of the blade. No success. Next up, was the barrel roller for the Mark II. I tried it first with my stones, starting from the Shapton 1000. In my mind I was visualizing a barely perceptible crown on the blade. No success again.
I then went to 200 grit sandpaper with the barrel roller, putting most of the pressure on the two edges and pretty much ignoring the center of the blade. I finally started to feel like I was removing metal from the edges of the blade. I then went up through the stones. The result was a crown that while very slight, was now clearly visible. The other difference I noticed was that when I adjusted the blade depth in the BU smoother, I could see the blade taper to nothing on the edges. It was quite a thrill to get a good wide shaving without leaving the dreaded tell-tale tracks.
Now that I have one “golden” blade, I am wondering if should put the same slight camber on the jack and jointer planes (also BU)? My inclination is to do so, but is there any reason why I should stay with a straight blade for those planes?