Stripped the Allen heads on my Ridgid planer blade lock bar screws

[dennis thompson]

I was changing the blades on my Ridgid planer. The blades are held in place by a lock bar with Allen head screws holding it in place. While removing the screws I stripped two of the Allen heads. I was able to get them out by tapping them with a chisel and ordered 6 new ones from eReplacement. So my question is: what can I do to avoid this in the future?
Happy New Year
Thanks
Dennis

[Allen Breinig]

They probably don't need to be that tight. Tight but not ready to strip the threads tight. I don't remember if there is a torque spec on those or not. Make sure your Allen wrench fits tightly in the bolt head, if it is a little loose it will strip out with not to much force. You may have to file it back to a good point on the hex area or you may need to purchase a better quality wrench that will fit properly. Just some ideas to consider.

[Jim Colombo]

Dennis;
I had a similar problem with mine, luckily I didn't strip any of them. I thought I would not tighten them as much after I replaced the blades but I don't think that's the real solution. I will be interested to see if anyone has a good idea because I'm not looking forward to changing them the next time.

[Neil Brooks]

If memory serves, lots of people have said they're "welded in there."

I think I'd put some anti-seize, or grease on 'em, when re-installing, and -- yeah -- if there IS a torque spec -- torquing them to spec (doubtless, NOT with a 1/2" torque wrench, but a 1/4").....

[Jay Rasmussen]

They probably don't need to be that tight. Tight but not ready to strip the threads tight. I don't remember if there is a torque spec on those or not. Make sure your Allen wrench fits tightly in the bolt head, if it is a little loose it will strip out with not to much force. You may have to file it back to a good point on the hex area or you may need to purchase a better quality wrench that will fit properly. Just some ideas to consider.

Totally Agree, the wrench can be the culprit, I keep mine ground sharp. Glad you could get them out without it being a big hassle!

[Phil Thien]

I'm not sure what kind of screws these are, but if they are socket head cap screws, McMaster offers many sizes with a Torx drive. No metric, though.

[Jamie Buxton]

When you initially insert the allen screws, you can immediately take them out, and that feels okay. That is, they don't get impacted in there immediately. I think what's causing the trouble is fine sawdust in the threads, where they're exposed while the allen screws are fully tightened. After my first scary experiences with impacted gib screws, I took to vacuuming out the screw holes before I loosen the screws. That's cured the problem. I use a soda straw to make a fine tip for my vacuum, to direct the suck precisely to the screw hole.

[Bill Huber]

First thing is go get a GOOD allen wrench, the one that comes with the planer is junk.
I had the same problem as has a lot of people, I ordered new ones and when I changed the blades I put just a spot of Never Seize on each one. I have not had a problem changing them after that.

[Andy Sowers]

Was this the first time changing the blades? Mine were tightened way beyond any reasonable torque specs from the factory, but subsequent exchanges haven't been bad at all..

Andy

[scott vroom]

Dennis, you didn't mention if you used the Allen wrench that came with the tool. In the past I've had similar problems using a standard wrench on a metric screw.....the fit is very close but off by just enough to allow stripping (I may be overstating the obvious here).

Also, did you check to make sure the hex hole in the screw was clear of dust? If the hole is loaded with sawdust, your wrench won't seat deep enough and you'll likely get some stripping.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I agree with getting a GOOD allen wrench. Go to a quality tool supplier and buy a good- i.e. expensive T-handle.

[joe oski]

Well at least you got them out.
Stop buy the autoparts store and get some never seize, should help with rust.
Replace them at any sign of hex socket distortion!
OR
If it happens again you may get lucky and find a metric wrench slightly bigger and tap it in. Tapping helps loosen the rust even with correct wrench

[david paul miller]

exactly what Bill Huber said. get a GOOD allen wrench and put just a spot of Never Seize on each one.

[Kevin Presutti]

My guess would be the allen wrench that came with is soft as well as the the allen head machine screw. Asian stuff seems to be softer as compared to the USA Rockwell Hardness scale. If you recieved new ones from ereplacement hopefully the they are Made In The USA, I would suggest trying to find the same USA wrench. Most of the fastener products require a smokestack factory and with all the EPA regs it is tough to get a hold of the decent hardware we were all so used to 20 years ago, now we have substituted junk for Made In The USA quaility and we are forced to work within the paramiters that are dictated to us by the poor quality crap we have to work with. Sorry for the rant but it is sadly the truth. Anyway be sure to lookup the the tightening specs and do not overtighten if you are uncomfortable in the fact you believe they need to be tighter just remove it blue threadlocker, reattach, tighten to spec maybe a 1/10 turn over and you should be good.

[Lee Schierer]

It sometimes help to tap on the heads before you try to loosen any type of allen screw. It is also wise as others have stated to use a good quality allen wrench and not the cheap ones that come with tools. Make sure the tip is not worn or even slightly rounded and tap it into the hole to make sure it seats all the way.