Glue block on face plate.

[robert baccus]

PS--titebond glue and most wood glues require a really tite joint and heavy pressure to get a good bond. CA can be used with an old shoe for weight and epoxy is the same way. i often use 4-5"glueblocks and 100# vase blanks and the surfaces on the piece are very difficult to get perfect. CA and epoxy both are very tolreant of this. epoxy is not tolerant however of wet wood--hence my bias to thick CA.------old forester

[steve johnson]

Several of us put medium ca glue on the face plate, then spray activator liberally on the blank, the push them together..good results.

[Don Alexander]

CA will hold just fine if you use enough glue, if you don't .......................... well wood never did stick to itself without glue, now did it?

as for seperating the glue block from the workpiece i have found that brown paper grocery bags have another use, simply apply a fairly thick layer of medium CA to the glue block then a piece of paper bag that i have cut to the size of my glue block then apply a fairly thick layer of medium CA to the workpiece and put the glueblock paper side to the workpiece rotate it back and forth a bit to make sure the glue is spread evenly and has completely saturated the paper (a bit of squeezeout is desirable) let it sit for 20-30 minutes and you are good to go ; when you are ready to remove the workpiece from the glueblock it is much easier to pop it off than glued up without the paper in it the joint ; never had one done this way break at the glue joint once or twice i had a soft workpiece bust off the block on a catch but it was the blank that failed not the glue

your mileage may vary

[Don Alexander]

one more thought on the glue block itself , spanish cedar is not a good wood for this use (almost as bad as mahogany) use a hardwood like maple and you will have much less chance of your glue block failing DAMHIKT

[robert baccus]

Good info above. I used paper years ago but found any normal sized bowl/glueblock easily pops off with a thick puttyknife. i cut a small 45 on the edge of the glueblock to aid this. also i find if i let the glueblock turn very slowly and add thick CA it holds in circles without dripping. this allows more glue like Don's indicates and wastes less. I mate the two while still turning and then straighten. On large glueblocks I turn down to 2" and then saw. I'm chicken.----------Old forester

[robert baccus]

Sorry forgot something. Don knows more about this than most will ever learn. Roger that on the wood. I try to use dogwood++, beech, braz cherry, walnut, hard maple ect. like Don. Not only to hold the wood but i use a single screw(Nova 2) freely--even on the really heavy pieces. Don't try this with poplar. On the hardener i do not believe that is good practice because it leaves no time for straighting and saves little time. It may weaken the joint as well???---------------------old forester