Ne walnut

[Jason scot]

IMG_20120108_164916.jpgIMG_20120108_164629.jpgIMG_20120108_164907.jpgCame across a couple good size hunks of walnut and decided to try a natural edge bowl. I've got it roughed down to about 1 1/4" so far and have put some ca on the bark and cambium area. I don't have anchor seal so I wiped beeswax on all endgrain surfaces and placed in a bag full of dry shavings. The walnut itself is still real green to the point that it's moisture was hitting me in the face while spinning. The bowl is about 9 1/2" x 5 1/2". Having only owned a lathe for a month I'm not sure if I've done everything right for dryin, so any pointers would be appreciated. Also, how long should it be allowed to dry before it can be finished?

[Mark Cothren]

That looks like a good start, Jason. I would probably have turned it thinner so that it would dry quicker and probably be less prone to crack. I've been told by a couple of guys that they turn their walnut NEs to final thickness while green and let them dry with very little movement. Next time I turn some green walnut I'm going to give it a try. Hope this one does good drying and finishing up!

[David E Keller]

I'm too inpatient to twice turn natural edge bowls, so I'd probably mount it back up and have a go especially if I didn't have any sealer. I'd guess you're looking at over a year for that piece to dry sufficiently if left as is... A roughout wall thickness of 10% the diameter is a pretty good rule of thumb for roughed out bowls, so you could have taken it down to 7/8" which would have sped the drying considerably. Looking forward to seeing it finished!

[Dan Forman]

I think you are much more likely to lose the bark if you wait and let it dry. I'd follow David's advice and finish it now.

Dan

[Jason scot]

After reading you guys' advice, I will be throwing it back on the lathe tomorrow afternoon. Thank for the tips, as a woodworker I've never had to deal with green stock before, so working with wet material will take some trial and error I'm sure. Thanks again.

[Dick Wilson]

Jason, You said the water coming off bowl was hitting you in the face......not face shield. PUT THE FACE SHIELD ON!!!!!!!!!!!!! Look forward to seeing the finished piece.

[Thomas Canfield]

Jason,

There have been some good comments so far. I would add one that the tenon looks pretty small for that size bowl and you should be extra careful or it will crack off if there is a little catch- don't ask how I know. Turning down to about 1/4 to 3/8" thickness for that size should produce a nice bowl that will warp when drying. Your sanding will help the drying process, but soaking with an oil finish will also help reduce the warpage in my limited experience.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I generally take my NE bowls from start to finish and then soaked them in Antique Oil. They don't move much at all. Good start though. I have agree with Dick. Why is the water hitting your face? Where is the face shield?

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I may be wrong but I believe the "little tenon' Tom was referring to is part of a face plate. If so, Jason, have you considered how you will finish the bottom. Now is the time to decide that. Also, remember where your screw holes are so they don't become part of the bowl bottom. Natural edge bowls don't have to be deep to be attractive. I would not deepen the bowl to the point where the tip of the screws are less than 1/2" or so from the inside bottom of the bowl. That will leave you lots of room to form a nice semi round bottom with a small recess to let the bowl rest flat while completely removing any trace of the screw holes.
faust

[Jason scot]

I may be wrong but I believe the "little tenon' Tom was referring to is part of a face plate. If so, Jason, have you considered how you will finish the bottom. Now is the time to decide that. Also, remember where your screw holes are so they don't become part of the bowl bottom. Natural edge bowls don't have to be deep to be attractive. I would not deepen the bowl to the point where the tip of the screws are less than 1/2" or so from the inside bottom of the bowl. That will leave you lots of room to form a nice semi round bottom with a small recess to let the bowl rest flat while completely removing any trace of the screw holes.
faust

Yes, the faceplate is still attached, I don't have a chuck. I learned about screw tips on one I did a couple weeks ago that was out of dry cherry.

[Jim Burr]

Jason, You said the water coming off bowl was hitting you in the face......not face shield. PUT THE FACE SHIELD ON!!!!!!!!!!!!! Look forward to seeing the finished piece.

Beat me to it Dick. Good job!!