Making handles without a lathe

[Dustin Keys]

I need handles. I need them for files, rasps, chisels, and a bow saw or two that I'm about to build. The problem is that I don't have a lathe. I've found a few tutorials on making them without a lathe, but the tutorial always uses some other tool I don't have as well (such as a table saw to turn a square blank into an octagon or spokeshaves to round things out).

I have a backsaw, coping saws, some files and rasps, planes (#5, #4, and a #9 1/2), and two drawknives. In my mind, I ought to be able to get a decent looking and feeling handle with all of that, but I'm not really sure where to start. Also, I would like my results to be somewhat repeatable. I know that will probably be difficult with the tools I have, but it's a goal.

What's a good process to make a handle with the tools I have? I could always just buy some cheap tool handles, but I'm approaching this as a skill building excercise as much as a way to get handles. I should add that I'm brand new to all of this. Most of the tools I have are old ones that I've scavenged from flea markets and estate sales and am in the process of rehabbing. I'm still learning to use the tools and set them up properly.

Thanks,
D

[David Weaver]

you'll get some answers here, but after making some without a lathe, if I were in your shoes, I'd beg, borrow or steal whatever is necessary to get a decent used mini lathe for $200 or so. Doesn't need to have electronic variable speed or anything, just needs to turn a blank (no harbor freight lathes).

Sell it when you're done if you don't want to have one permanently.

The quality of your results (the fit of a tenon in a chisel socket, etc...) and the speed that you get through them will be far higher.

[Chris Griggs]

For file and rasp handle, you can easily enough just plane a square block into and octagon and the round of the end grain where the handle contacts your palm with a rasp. Could probably do something similar for a bowsaw handle, but just taper the blank with a plane. I don't think you could do socket chisels without a lathe, but tang chisel can be done like this.

[James Carmichael]

What chris said. A spokesave if you want them rounder with some slight curves

I dont worry about file handles, you can buy them at the Borg
.

[john brenton]

I've got to answer back on the no HF lathe comment. I have the 33" reversible head model and it's really nice. I made all the standard adjustments (greasing, changing the belt etc), and It runs really smooth and is heavy duty. It's not like the 40" model that basically has a sheet metal bed. I would much rather have a used model of higher caliber, but I just got tired of waiting for one to show up.

I mean, with a 2 year, no questions asked return policy, I don't see how anyone could go wrong.

you'll get some answers here, but after making some without a lathe, if I were in your shoes, I'd beg, borrow or steal whatever is necessary to get a decent used mini lathe for $200 or so. Doesn't need to have electronic variable speed or anything, just needs to turn a blank (no harbor freight lathes).

Sell it when you're done if you don't want to have one permanently.

The quality of your results (the fit of a tenon in a chisel socket, etc...) and the speed that you get through them will be far higher.

[Bill Houghton]

Remember that one of the classic handles for files was a corncob. You can certainly improve on that.

Chris has offered a good suggestion. I might disagree with him on the question of making a handle for a socket chisel; it'll be harder, but it's not impossible to rasp/file a handle round and tapered. In fact, final fitting of a handle to a socket chisel often calls for rasp and file work, because the sockets are often not circular - they'll have flat spots inside, be slightly oval, etc. (a matter of factory inconsistencies and age-related battering).

You might consider a planing fixture: cut a large V-groove in a 2x4 that is stopped at one end. You can stop the groove either by cutting it out with a chisel or by gluing a block of wood in somehow. Make the groove of such a size that your handle stock fits in about halfway. You can then hold the stock in the fixture and plane off high spots easily.

[Zach Dillinger]

You might look up 18th century octagonal handles. I made many of these for my tools, before I built my lathe. Even though I have a lathe, they are still my favorite and I've made many more since. Give one a try!

[Todd Burch]

This it the neanderthal forum - I'm thinking you could just gnaw the wood. LOL

Seriously, if I were pressed, I'm thinking a sharp pocket knife would work just fine.

[David Weaver]

It's not like the 40" model that basically has a sheet metal bed.
I mean, with a 2 year, no questions asked return policy, I don't see how anyone could go wrong.

That's the one I was avoiding without getting into detail. They do, though, have some cast lathes that could be fine if you can return them if they're not right.

Lathe prices have gone nutty in the last few years. I got a delta 6 amp midi lathe a couple of years ago new for $199 on sale. I guess they want $400+ now, which is a bit goofy given its origin.

At any rate, any decent lathe that does what it's supposed to do is well worth the price for handle making. Doesn't need to have electronics on it, just something that turns wood.

[Bill White]

You can build a "spring pole" lathe for practically nothing. I made a light weight one from a 2 x 6 base with 2 x 4 head and tail stock, used center punches as centering devices, a leather thong and bungee cord for the drive, and a 1 x 6 board laid on the floor as a treadle. Darned thing did a suprisingly good job of turning some spindles (read that handles in your case). I picked up a used set of old Crapsman lathe tools for about 15 bucks, sharpened 'em up, and went at it.
Google "spring pole lathe" and see what ya get for ideas.
Of course after I got hooked, I spent a bundle on lathes and stuff. Oh well.....
Bill

[Jim Koepke]

For files and rasps even an old wine cork will work.

As others have said, you can make octagonal handles with a plane and a few other tools to trim it for socket chisels or drilling if you have tang chisels.

Copper pipe fittings make nice ferrules.

I put a WTB (lathe) card on the local supermarket bulletin board. I only got one call, but it netted an old Craftsman (King Seely) lathe and tools for $100.

Before that I started taking an adult class in woodworking that was offered through the local schools system. I went to two or three classes before buying the other lathe. It did allow me the use of the lathe in the shop class, but it didn't have much instruction beyond showing me where the tools were and where the power switch was located. I did make about a half dozen tool handles.

Chisel Rack.jpg

This shows some of my earliest chisel handles. The second from the bottom is made from a piece from an old chair. The bottom one broke and was repurposed as a file handle. It did show me that the handle shouldn't be so big or thin in some areas. The top on also broke in the thin area and was reshaped for a different chisel. It broke again. That taught me that chisel handles need to be made from stronger wood than burls.

Gee Willikers!!! I missed the chisel over on the left. That handle is also made from the same broken chair as the second from the bottom.

Some of the chisels that I have bought used have come with a piece of wood whittled down on the end where it fits into the socket.

Unless I was able to buy another lathe, the old Craftsman is staying in the shop. It broke one part, but I was able to fabricate a replacement with a bit of sweat and filing.

Even with this one I am tempted to try making a treadle lathe just for fun.

Once you have a lathe, you will be glad you bought/built it.

jtk

[Andrew Pitonyak]

How many file handles do you need / desire? I purchased two bags of file handles on eBay so I suppose that I could "share my excess" (so to speak). I need to verify how many I really have, but I seem to remember that I have more than I will use. I will even cover shipping, but I "wood" ask that you become a contributing member to SMC (I think that means $6).

[john brenton]

He said "leather thong."

Haha, seriously, I tried my hand at the pole lathe and used it for a few projects before I said nuts to that. I just ground some points on a metal rod...If I were to do it again I would buy two cheap live centers from HF and use those. But it was fun to use the pole lathe though...man, my leg was hurting sooooo bad after the first time I turned. I used some wet pine and it was so cool that I just couldn't stop...I turned for a few hours I think and I could barely walk the next day.

leather thong
Bill

[john brenton]

If you do ever consider a larger lathe let me know and I'll tell you how mine is holding up. I made a few handles as well as some egg cups (for hardboiled eggs) recently and the lathe is perfect. It's ok with bigger stuff too. I just recently made a cannonball bed with 3" x 3" posts and it handled it just fine.

That's the one I was avoiding without getting into detail. They do, though, have some cast lathes that could be fine if you can return them if they're not right.

Lathe prices have gone nutty in the last few years. I got a delta 6 amp midi lathe a couple of years ago new for $199 on sale. I guess they want $400+ now, which is a bit goofy given its origin.

At any rate, any decent lathe that does what it's supposed to do is well worth the price for handle making. Doesn't need to have electronics on it, just something that turns wood.

[Zach Dillinger]

He said "leather thong."

Haha, seriously, I tried my hand at the pole lathe and used it for a few projects before I said nuts to that. I just ground some points on a metal rod...If I were to do it again I would buy two cheap live centers from HF and use those. But it was fun to use the pole lathe though...man, my leg was hurting sooooo bad after the first time I turned. I used some wet pine and it was so cool that I just couldn't stop...I turned for a few hours I think and I could barely walk the next day.

Instead of live centers, or ground steel rod, you can use the metal points from an old weaving shuttle. That is what I used in my springpole lathe and they work great.

You can't swing a dead cat in an antique mall without hitting a shuttle, very common. Usually around $10. Cut the metal ends out (remember that they have a metal rod about 5/8" long that goes into the wood, perfect for installing on the lathe). The wood itself, usually dogwood, is useful to patching boxing on molding planes.