Bowl Buffs

[Richard Golde]

From time to time I have struggled with dust and other things in my bowl final finish giving me a less than smooth finish. Im thinking of going the finish, steel wool, and buffing route. What size of bowl buffs would you recommend for 8-10 inch bowls? I see 2-4 inch sizes. Also I see that a slower speed motor, 1725 rpm, is recommended for 8 inch buffing wheels. Would the regular 3450 rpm motor be better for the buffs because of their smalled diameter? Also would you use the buffs for the outside instead if the wheels as not to have to change them out? Your comments and other ideas would be appreciated.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the 3" buffs but I buff bowls up to 15 1/2". I use the wheels buffers on the outside. of the bowls, HF's, etc. If you don't ever see yourself going over a 10" bowl the two would probably work fine for you. I definitely would not recommend a 3450 rpm motor for buffing. Sometimes I think 1725 is a little fast but it does work. A friend of mine puts his wheel buffs on his lathe and never goes above 1000 rpm. You definitely have to be careful when buffing that it does not grab the piece on the edges or opening. It can sling it out of your hand before you can blink and generally the results aren't good. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Chris Colman]

Ditto the original question.

Also, are we talking the bowl buffs from Beall? Or are there others out there?

[Richard Allen]

Tere is a HUGE difference between how the 8" wheels buff and the 4" bowl buffs work. I use the buffing wheels and bowl buffs on the lathe, not on a motor. The lathe provides different speeds which I find useful for buffing. I recommend the 4" bowl buffs for the inside of 10" bowls. In fact I will use the 4" bowl buffs to good effect for bowls as small as 5" across. I also have the 3" bowl buffs and 2" bowl buffs. I have used the 3" bowl buffs for 5" and smaller bowls or goblets. I have not used the 2" bowl buffs.

I highly recommend the Don Pencil spindle extender for the buffing wheels and bowl buffs. This device makes buffing on the lathe much easier and effective for me.

[Prashun Patel]

If all you are looking to do is smooth out your final finish you can also just use 0000# or an Abralon pad or even a crumpled paper bag - each lubricated with mineral spirits or paste wax. These things will give you a satin or semigloss finish. Buffing systems with fine compounds are only necessary to take the sheen back up to gloss - but aren't needed if all you want is a 'hand rubbed' feel.

[Jeff Fagen]

Richard,I will no doubt recieve jears for this but what I do is buff bowls with a cheap cotton 6" sewn wheel and a stick of triple E compound both from Menards both under $10.00.The buffing wheel is mounted on an open motor running at 1725 RPM.I use 600 sand paper or steel wool before buffing.
You've seen my bowls and they have a silky smooth satin finnish.OK guys now you can tell him how much he'll have to spent to get this kind of finish.

[Richard Allen]

Jeff

There is nothing wrong with the 6" sewn wheels and your method. A lot of very successful buffing can be done that way.

The 8" wheels are also wider and because they are not sewn they are softer and conform to curves better. Also the three wheels work with a wide variety finishes and wood species. The long mandril makes buffing platters and larger bowls better.

There are a lot of different ways to do things like buffing and there is no one right way. There are well respected woodturners who feel that buffing clouds the clarity of the wood. The idea being that buffing abrades the surface in a random way where as fine abrasives cut in more or less straight lines.

If I were after a satin finish, which is a very pleasant look, then I would not buff the finish. When I buff I am looking for a more glossy surface. It is usually easy to tell which finishes have been buffed with a Beal like buffing system. If that is the look you are after then the Beal buffing system of one of the clones is a good way to go. There are other places where you can purchase buffing wheels, abrasive compounds, wax, and mounting systems. You can save some money by piecing the stuff together yourself. Piecing the stuff together yourself also lets you change the parameters. Caswell has a wide selection of buffing compounds and wheels.