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Thread: Cored Beech and a Question on Stretch Wrap

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    sLower Delaware
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    Cored Beech and a Question on Stretch Wrap

    I have been meaning to ask this question for the last month but kept putting it off. I have wrapped several rims on turned thin bowls with stretchwrap to try and prevent cracking around the rim and reduce warping. The bowls were then placed in paper bags to dry. The area where the stretch wrap was placed has resulted in a difference in shade. The wrap was left on until the bowl was dray and sanded. (close to a year for the madrone and about the same for the sycamore). This madrone bowl has been sitting in my dining room(lots of sunlight) for the last couple of months and has not evened out. I doubt it will.
    1-12-12 Beech Core 1 053.jpg1-12-12 Beech Core 1 054.jpg
    This Sycamore bowl has been finished about a month and sitting in the light.
    1-12-12 Beech Core 1 047.jpg
    Any thoughts?
    This is some beech that I turned thin today. It is pretty wet. To try and avoid the multiple hours of sanding on the dry sycamore bowl, I wet sanded these to 150 with walnut oil. The future sanding should be less tedious! I hope!!
    1-12-12 Beech Core 1 026.jpg1-12-12 Beech Core 1 043.jpg1-12-12 Beech Core 1 046.jpg1-12-12 Beech Core 1 050.jpg
    They are now in bags to dry. I am hesitant to wrap the rims because of the color differences in the past. Any one experienced this?
    Thoughts and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated!



  2. #2
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    Those are some nice looking bowls Baxter. Did you soak them in walnut oil?
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Man, that's a sweet looking nested set! I've never used the stretch wrap method, so I can't help you there... Maybe Reed will chime in shortly.

  4. #4
    I don't think you need to wrap the rims if the drying is well controlled. The last time I dried madrone was very successful. I used plastic bags (individual pieces) and turned it inside out every day or so for about two weeks, then left the pieces in an unused bathroom with very little air circulation. No cracks.

    I think your bags will work just fine as long as they are not in a location that is going to have a quick drying effect.

    Also wanted to say that I love the look of those bowls and that set should fetch a good price.

  5. #5
    nice beech, Baxter, i may have to get some of that walnut oil

    on the stretch wrap, i have received blanks that have been stretch wrapped instead of anchor sealed, never have used it myself, especially after turning, maybe experiment when you have a whole tree to turn, not on your burls

  6. #6
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    Sweeeet Baxter!
    A few hours south of Steve Schlumpf

  7. #7
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    I think that's the first "Beechware" I've seen, and it sure is pretty! I'm not sure if Reed bags them or not, maybe just wraps and lets them dry, which would take less time, and might explain why they don't turn color. Not sure though. I'd PM or email him if you need to know right away.

    With the oil on them, I would think that your bowls should dry slowly enough not to cause problems if just bagged, but don't quote me on that either.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    NW Florida
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    Baxter, I've had a similar problem with stretchwrap, plus my bowls molded under the plastic. I'm still trying to find the right method for drying in my climate. It must be a fine line between molding and cracking and I haven't been able to hit on it yet.

  9. #9
    Great looking set of bowls. Makes me want to try a few...
    David DeCristoforo

  10. #10
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    No thoughts on the stretch wrap color diff, but that set of bowls is great looking. Will be a wonderful set when done.

  11. #11
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    This brings up the old question--natural or round. both have their arguements. ifyou want round you should consider wqxing and returning--makes power sanding easy and lathe finishing feasible. if you want the natural look you have many options--most of which you have covered. OBTW beech is very unstable in drying and is used in the industry to make small turned things. good luck------------old forester

  12. #12
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    I know Reed has done this in the past, and may still. See if he pops in on this or send him a note. I guess all the little bowls are sons of a Beech?
    Last edited by Jim Burr; 01-12-2012 at 11:17 PM.
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears combat boots

  13. #13
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    That's a beautiful set of nested bowls Baxter! I've been planning to try out my McNaughton system again this weekend, if mine turn out a fraction as nice, I'll be happy!
    "If it is wood, I will turn it."
    vor-tex: any activity, situation, or way of life regarded as irresistibly engulfing.

  14. #14
    Well, I have never gotten any color difference from my plastic wrap. I don't put them in bags of any sort, they didn't need them. Just putting them in bags didn't do anything that I could tell, even double and triple bagging. Just the wrap, and on edge on the concrete floor. It might be an oxidation thing, where the part under plastic doesn't oxidize (patina if you want to get fancy). My bowls are about 3/8 inch thick, and dry in 10 to 14 days.

    robo hippy

  15. #15
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    Looks really nice - as usual! Did you core those with your Oneway system? I think I remember seeing a Oneway coring tool in one of your posts anyway...
    Man advances just in proportion that he mingles thought with his labor. - Ingersoll

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