Can this kind of arbor play be fixed?

[Troy Turner]

So I had some time to fiddle with my T/S the other day getting it dialed in. It's an 80's model Craftsman contractor saw. I got a dial gauge, attached it to a block of wood, marked the blade, and got it within .001 (if I'm reading my gauge right). Pretty tolerable I reckon.However, I noticed my blade had a wobble to it, so I thought I'd check that out too. I lined it up with my mark, and as I spun it, this is the highest reading I got:

gauge.JPG

It would jump around a little, and actually go -.002, then 0 back out as I got back to my mark. Took the blade off and checked the arbor. Only went .002 I rotated it. I did notice however that when I would grab the pulley to move it, I could push it in (from the pulley) .005 and pull it back to the -.002 readings I was getting on my blade.

So is there something inside the arbor that can be done to fix this play?

Thanks for any info...

[mickey cassiba]

We're building furniture here...not rockets. Total deflection or runout of +/- .007 is just about perfect. Remember...1/32"= .03125"

[Troy Turner]

Yeah, I figured I was being a bit nit-picky since I got the gauge. Never noticed it before...

[Lee Schierer]

It sounds like your arbor bearings may be worn. Look at your parts manual to see how they come out of the assembly. You should be able to get new bearings at any bearing supplier. .007 play is quite a bit for an arbor shaft. You might nee an arbor press to get the arbor and or the bearings out of and back into the housing.

[ray hampton]

If you have to make a cut from both sides of the planks because it too thick then the end play will amount to something if the cut do not meet

[Todd Burch]

7/1000ths of an inch play in a 30 year old contractor saw? Call Sears - they might want to make a TV commercial with it. (Visualize a chevy truck commercial with 400,000 miles on it)

Seriously. A 30 year old, bottom of the line saw. It's fine. But I do commend you for even putting a dial indicator on it.

Todd

[Neil Brooks]

Yeah, I figured I was being a bit nit-picky since I got the gauge. Never noticed it before...

Oh, yeah. I hear ya'.

The week after I bought my laser-aimed digital infrared thermometer ... was a bad week for all concerned

[Bruce Wrenn]

[QUOTE=Todd Burch;1853759] (Visualize a chevy truck commercial with 400,000 miles on it) My old truck (1986 Nissan) had 540,000 on when it finally died. Most of those miles were pulling a trailer. Current truck only has 300,000 miles on it. Both of our Honda's (1994 Accord, and 1990 Civic) has almost 300,000 miles on them. A couple weeks back, there was a Honda Accord featured in Parade Magazine that had ONE MILLION MILES on it!

[Joseph Tarantino]

So I had some time to fiddle with my T/S the other day getting it dialed in. It's an 80's model Craftsman contractor saw. I got a dial gauge, attached it to a block of wood, marked the blade, and got it within .001 (if I'm reading my gauge right). Pretty tolerable I reckon.However, I noticed my blade had a wobble to it, so I thought I'd check that out too. I lined it up with my mark, and as I spun it, this is the highest reading I got:

gauge.JPG

It would jump around a little, and actually go -.002, then 0 back out as I got back to my mark. Took the blade off and checked the arbor. Only went .002 I rotated it. I did notice however that when I would grab the pulley to move it, I could push it in (from the pulley) .005 and pull it back to the -.002 readings I was getting on my blade.

So is there something inside the arbor that can be done to fix this play?

Thanks for any info...

that saw was built by emerson electric for sears (and ridgid also). i have one of each, with the c-man dating to the 70s. there is no in and out play in the arbor and it spins, with hand activation, without the blade and with the drive belt removed, for about 15 seconds. the arbor bearing is probably deficient. replace it or the saw.

[Troy Turner]

Yeah, a new saw, while it would be nice, is certainly not in any kind of budget right now. I'll replace the bearings, check the shaft, and see what happens.

[Jeff Duncan]

OK .002 would be pretty good tolerance for the spindle on an industrial shaper....for an old contractor saw I'd leave the bearings and everything else alone until they become a problem and be happy your saw is that close. If you can get the arbor better than that it would be impressive indeed!

good luck,
JeffD

[Jerome Stanek]

I would leave it as you may get more run out if you replaced the bearings. Or is this just a gloat.

[Greg Peterson]

.007 is a little on the loose side. Depending on how much precision your projects require, this may be an acceptable tolerance.

[Jim Barkelew]

About the only problem I had with my craftsman (1980 ish) was the arbor bearing comming loose in the housing. Over time the slight play enlarged the housing until the shaft started to move along with the blade. It took a while to figure what was wrong. I "fixed" it by wrapping .001" shim stock I had around the bearing and re-installing it with locktite. I got a permanent fix with my SawStop

So, watch the play in the arbor.

[steven c newman]

My "Franckensaw" is also an 80ish 113..... A long while ago, the trunnion itself froze up, just wouldn't raise or lower. Turned out the trunnion had a "parting of the ways" going on. Instead of a new trunnion from Sears ( $80, shipped from a flea-bitten state called Texas) I went out and bought a second saw, for PARTS. Trunnion fit right in, the "extra" steel wings got bolted onto the right side, the "new" motor got hung out the back. Parts saw was actually one model older than the saw it fixed. Rack&pinnion fence was cracked and stripped out, so it went in the trash can. Who knows, maybe a second "Franckensaw" is in the works, down your way?