router lifts

[Carol Reed]

I want to put my PC 7518 in a lift without without breaking the bank. Recommendations from actual users, please.

[Paul Gallian]

Carol,

this is a bank buster and I really like mine and I use it... INCRA's NEW Mast-R-Lift II

[Van Huskey]

AFAIK the lifts for the 7518 are all in the $300 +/- range. I love my Woodpecker PRLV1 and V2. I think the BenchDog may be the cheapest of all the 7518 lifts and is a very good lift.

[Neil Brooks]

Either the current, or last, issue of ShopNotes has a plan for a DIY lift. Looks pretty cool, if you're feeling adventurous.

I don't recall whether or not they listed the materials cost, but ... not nearly in the range of one of the commercially available products, I'm sure.

[pat warner]

For anybody else: Mount directly to underside of table, no lift.
For you: Maybe: Woodhaven's . Not an endorsement.
Hoping that back gets behind you (painwise).

[glenn bradley]

I have a couple of Woodpecker PRL-v1's. One of them I got cheap when they were blowing out the last of them. There are a flock of $200 players on the market but for the extra $100, you can see/feel the difference. For a cost controlled solution I think building your own or a good deal on a used unit is the only answer. I run Milwaukees 5625 which I used without a lift for quite some time. It was as good as many of the lighter weight lifts I have played with. The main thing that I required was that the motor be locked into the housing and that the whole unit moved on screws and self locked into position. If you still have to fool with locking the rig into position, it loses the advantage I am after in a lift. This doesn't mean that what you want a lift for wouldn't be well served with a setup of this kind. Your requirement priorities will direct you to the end result. Enjoy the hunt ;-)

[Roger Chandler]

Carol,

I use the Jessem Master Lift set up with my 7518......it was around $250 when I purchased about 3 years ago......it really is a great decision ......put it under my shop built router table........have made all kinds of raised panel cabinet doors, etc....super accurate.

IMGP3094.jpgIMGP3095.jpg

This was one piece of equipment that was worth the investment.........cannot say that about all things I have purchased for woodworking!

[Carol Reed]

Thanks, Pat, but the desire for a router lift is because bending is an issue. Looked at Woodhaven. Had your hands on one? Seems like accuracy may be an issue.

[ian maybury]

To float the question again. I've just installed a Router Raizer which seems to work well although it's not been tested yet. Why are people spending $2 - 300 on a router lift? (a genuine question)

Is one reason is perhaps that it avoids the need for the extender???

ian

[Homer Faucett]

It's generally because of convenience and increased accuracy in the raising/lowering. Above table bit changes and height adjustment are the main conveniences, and the lift generally raises/lowers in smaller increments with less backlash than a typical plunge router mechanism.

Are router lifts absolutely necessary? Generally speaking, no. I do a lot of work with a plunge router inverted in a table. Are router lifts nice to have? I have to admit, they are pretty posh. However, if you do the math on the router, lift, and table components, you might find that you just stepped up into the league of being able to afford a used Delta HD shaper.

To float the question again. I've just installed a Router Raizer which seems to work well although it's not been tested yet. Why are people spending $2 - 300 on a router lift? (a genuine question)

Is one reason is perhaps that it avoids the need for the extender???

ian

[Roger Chandler]

I have found the accuracy of a lift is superior to trying to adjust by hand........especially for things like the cope and stick joints that make the frame on a raised panel door. The setup of being able to turn a setting 1/128th of an inch will allow one to creep up on a setting to get flush joints with stile and rail bits as well as glue joint bits for panels as well.

I have increased my panel gluing accuracy a great deal and with the glue joint bits, you avoid the glue creep that happens with just butting two boards together or even with biscuit joinery, which I have used a great deal in the past, and still do at times.

My opinion is that it is hard to beat a router lift setup.

[John M. Johnson]

I have the benchdog lift and really like it. If you have a Rockler near you, couple that w/ their 20% off coupon, and it is very reasonable.

[Carol Reed]

Gonna save the bucks for a Woodpecker SW420. After weeding out the lifts for plunge routers and concentrating on lifts that can handle the hefty 7518, I am gonna spend over $300. However, my issue is my back and inability to bend over easily, let alone without pain. This is the sidewinder model which will also ease my neck and shoulder. I find that I am making new tool choices based on my diminishing physical abilities. So I will trade a few bucks for an easier and less painful way of doing things.

[Chris Parks]

For easier access to the router whether it has a lift or not you can hinge the top so it can be lifted bringing the router above the table. Really useful when changing bits etc for those with limited movement. I made one for my Dad and he used it for years and his router did not have a lift.

[Larry Frank]

I have an older UniLift with a PC 7518 and love it. Bending is an issue for me with back problems and this makes it so much better. I also have my router table pretty high which also makes it easier to work on it.

There are quite a few good router lifts and unfortunately most are not cheap.