Another Cherry blotchy problem

[Matthew Sherman]

I did some reading before starting to finish the cherry coffee table I built. I used the Varathane wood conditioner and followed the instructions. I then put a red chestnut stain on top. Even with the wood conditioner is it still blotchy. Where should I could from here? Do I need to sand off and start again. Or use a Gel stain as as a 2nd coat.

[John TenEyck]

I'm sure one of the pros know for sure, but I'm guessing you'd have to sand a lot to get all the stain out of the pores where the blotching occurred. I'd guess the only way to remove it is to use a stripper. I don't often stain cherry because it blotches so easily. When I do color it, I usually use a dye and then a gel stain glaze. Whenever I color wood I test out the entire procedure on scraps first to see how it works and identify any problems.

[Bob Wingard]

A 2-part bleach should remove the stain, depending on how mush of it is dye vs. pigment. Watch the video on Charles Neil's website about his Blotch Control product ... you can take it to the bank ...it works, and it works very well.

[Matthew Sherman]

Ok, thanks. I found that Charles Neil's stuff. I wish I would have found that before staining. I ordered some and stripped it tonight. The stripper didn't remove all the stain, but lightened it. I am planning on sanding it tomorrow. Glad I only did the top, so easy to sand large flat surface.

[Robert Maloney]

+1 on Charles Neil's Blotch Control. Works great on Cherry. I just built some Keeping Chests out of Curly Cherry applied 2 wet coats of blotch control and they came out beautiful. No blotching and it allowed the figure to come through. Definitely worth the money.

[Matthew Sherman]

I ordered a couple quarts of the Charles Neil's stuff. I sanded with 80 grit tonight. This seemed to remove most of the stain, but there are still some areas that the stain comes back through. Do I need to use another chemical remover to get the rest out? Or
DSC_0304.jpgDSC_0305.jpgDSC_0307.jpg

[Bob Wingard]

Only you know the level of perfection with which you will be satisfied. If this piece is highly visible, it might be worth a shot at bleaching ... either plain chlorine or (better choice but not as convenient) two part wood bleach. If you are going back with the same or very similar color, the small amount left behind might not matter to you, but it will, in all probability be visible.

Charles Neils' Blotch Control works best with pure dyes, and, as such, a dark enough dye might just make those specs disappear.

[Tri Hoang]

Wipe on a coat of sealer shellac and gel stain...I'm don't think the oil-type conditioner is very effective.

[Scott Holmes]

The Charles Neil Blotch control is a water-borne product. I have used it; it works best with a water soluble dye or water based stain. I had a few issues with alcohol dyes.

I don't color cherry... I use it on maple.

[Matthew Sherman]

Update... After sanding with 80 grit and getting the little stain seeping through I did start bleaching like Bob said. I didn't get any really strong stuff. I did 2 coats of Clorox then neutralized it. The next evening I sanded with 80 grit again and worked back up to 220. I applied Charles Neil's blotch control and sanded with 320 after the first coat and then 400 the next evening. I tested the Varathane stain and it seemed fine, just a little lighter. It turned out much better. I haven't decided yet if I am going to put on a 2nd coat of stain.