taper jig

[Mike Stanton]

Could I use a taper jig like this can I cut things at 30 degrees for a
light house Mike

[Richard Gillespie]

Mike;

You've edited your post and removed an incorrect picture. I can't judge what you are trying to do based on what you've written. In my experience a taper jig is only intended to go a few degrees. I can't say I've ever seen one that would go much past 15 degrees. Anything more than that you would have to use your table saw miter.

To interpret what your asking, is it a compound miter you are trying to cut? If so, then you can set your blade at 30 degrees and the taper jig to the desired angle. However, remember you have to cut that compound miter on both sides of the piece. You will probably have to create a home made jig for that. The table saw miter could also be used to cut both sides by using both channels in the table saw top.

In addition, whenever I've cut a sharp angle with my saw miter I've added a piece of PSA sandpaper to the miter to avoid slippage.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

IIRC the sides of a light house have to be 30 degrees on both sides. For this reason, I think you would be better off building a dedicated sled for this. Build one that rides in the miter gauge and screw a "fence" to it so that one side will go through the blade at 30 degrees. Now cut one side of all of your pieces. Now adjust the sled to cut the other side of all of the peices.

Does that make sense? I would add toggle clamps to the "fence" to secure the peices. I rear fence may be a good idea as well.

[Hoa Dinh]

The problem is that a jig that helps you to cut 30 degrees is no longer called a taper jig . It can be the very same thing but is now called a miter jig

I have a two leg taper jigs bought when I was young and innocent. It has been at the same spot on the wall for the last 5 years.

My current taper jig is just a piece of sheet goods, whatever I can find around the shop. Let's call it a carrier. It is rectangular, a few inches longer and wider than the work piece. Setting the rip fence a tad narrower than the carrier, I trim one side of the carrier. Tilt the blade if I want a bevel cut. Then I attach the workpiece to the carrier (double-sided tape works fine for me), the cut line on the workpiece alligned with one long edge of the carrier. Without moving the rip fence, I throw the whole think on the TS against the rip fence and cut away.

For less than 15 degrees, I call it a taper jig. For larger angles. I call it a miter jig. You can call it a sled if you want to.

The carrier goes back to the lumber bin afterward.

[Mike Stanton]

I still can't get it to post right I give up. Thanks for the tryes anyway. Mike

[Garry Smith]

Heres a jig that I made for tapering long pieces. It is very easy to make and also save. Check it out by going to this page. It shows the jig and tapered pieces that I made the jig for. Some of the pieces were 7 1/2 feet long.

http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/Stairs.htm

Garry

[Mike Stanton]

Thanks for your help. I love your work. Very beautiful work. Better than I am but I keep trying. Mike