Joinery Float, Push or Pull?

[Bill Miltner]

I am going to purchase a joinery float (my first) and need a little help. The primary use will be to trim tenons, and possibly mortise sides. Looking at the models on the LN website they show both push and pull models. I don't want to invest in both types right now.

Any thoughts on why I should choose one style over the other? Also any reason to choose the offset Face float over the straight Cheek model?

[James Owen]

The push model, based on the number of comments here that mention it, seems to be the most popular.

I have a push version, and really like the way it works -- very easy to control. I would suggest the offset handle: it lets you keep the blade flat on the work without scraping your knuckles.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Push v pull is a personal preference thing, IMO. All my other, like rasps and handsaws, are push, so I guess I'm a "push" guy, not a pull. Works fine.

The offset handle on the face float gives your fingers/knuckles clearance. While this might not be a big deal on smaller tenons, if you use it on longer ones, or for some oddity in the field of a board, it will make a big difference. Plus - it lets you stand over the target, and your hand moves as it would with a plane. I generally find that I use my right hand on the handle for the forward push, and a couple fingers on my left had to steady the blade and provide just a slight bit of downward pressure - you don't need much, just level contact.

The cheek float is designed primarily for the faces inside the mortise, and having the handle in-line with the blade gives you good balance + control.

I got one of each. If you are going to start with just one, get the face float - it can work inside the mortises, but not the ideal tool for that.

[Jerome Hanby]

I was asking a similar question in regards to plane making and the most informative answer I got specified push for some and pull for others. Bet you could search and find the thread...