Convex Bevel sharpening

[Jim Barrett]

Paul Sellers on how he sharpens....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ykV...layer_embedded

Anyone sharpen this way...?

Jim

[Don Dorn]

No, but I've used many of Paul Sellers tricks with great results. My own system doesn't take much longer and uses a strop, but I'm considering trying it using some old HF chisels I bought for such experiments.

[Tri Hoang]

I converted probably half of my chisels to convex bevel, mostly the smaller sizes. My technique is a little different but the end result is the same. For me, the primary benefit is speed - both the initial honing and subsequent stropping. I can use an incredible amount of pressure to reshape a typical damaged edge when needed and virtually eliminate the grinder. The smooth convex bevel also allows me to feel/hear very accurately when the very tip of the bevel edge is touching the stone.

[Jim Koepke]

I am a little bit reluctant to try this. Many times my chisels are used bevel down for cutting and this seems it might cause a loss of control in such situations.

There is one video, at least, showing a person who rocks the blade while sharpening. I guess if it cuts that is what counts, but I will stick with what I know works.

jtk

[Mark Dorman]

That's a good point to ponder Jim. I'll have to watch the next time I'm bevel down and see if I use the flat to register
like I think I do or not.

[Greg Gregoire]

As a chairmaker i have for years sharpened with a convexed bevel on my scorp and drawknife. This allows me to use the bevel down and come out of the cut when needed. The same is true with my chisels. I can register the heel and gently come into the cut and exiting cleanly.

Greg

[Russell Sansom]

Barr Chisels come with a convex bevel. I've just gone along with it through the first couple retouchings. But my system and my perceptions are optimized for a concave bevel and water stones.

Is it common for framing chisels? The idea feels right for use in the field, chopping joints for a frame and timber barn. Quick to sharpen without needing the precision and the almost laboratory setting to regrind and hone a new edge on a flat or convex chisel. I'd say in this case that the rounded bevel would be perfect for modulating the depth when chopping bevel down.

[Don Dorn]

I tried this method on four cheap HF chisels thrown in a cabinet. They were originally purchased for grinding practice rather than good ones. After digging them out, I tried Mr. Sellers method and was amazed how fast they turned convex with a 260, 360, 600, 1200 with no more than 30 seconds on each. I gave it that long because they started with a concave bevel but think it would just take a few strokes to maintain the convex bevel. I ended with the strop just as Mr. Sellers did and was amazed at the sharpness. Those cheap chisels of which I've never bothered to flatten the backs caused a section of my arm to go bald - and with very little effort.

That said, they are not quite as sharp as my good chisels using a concave primary and slight secondary, but then in fairness, I didn't try Mr. Sellers method with a quality chisel. In any event, they come out very sharp in a short amount of time. The method works!

[Shaun Mahood]

I've now fully converted over to this method. My original hope with sharpening was that I would be able to get everything sharp, quickly, with no jigs, no grinder or hollow grind, and without having to soak any stones. I was able to sharpen plane blades and chisels on the weekend in about a minute each, and had them coming out sharper than before.

My setup before: coarse diamond stone, medium spyderco ceramic, super fine spyderco ceramic. No strop, using micro bevels with Veritas Mk2 jig.

Now: coarse diamond stone, medium spyderco ceramic, super fine spyderco ceramic, and leather strop with same setup as Paul Sellers. No jig, faster to sharpen and sharper (I assume from the strop).

I'm extremely happy with this, left it set up with a removable vise to hold the strop and the barrier to sharpening became basically nothing for my chisels.

[Greg Berlin]

I converted to this method too, I was scared to try freehand sharpening with the fear I was gonna screw up! But as it turns out, the worksharp 3000 and the honing jig are in the boxes and every chisel I sharpen comes out with a nice polished convex bevel that cuts everything I need. I think sometimes we tend to make more out of things than they really are. Maybe we have over thought the sharpening process and it took Paul sellers to bring us back to reality! Haha

[Roderick Gentry]

Worst case if you sharpen freehand with a flat bevel you end up with a slightly rounded one. You can correct any mess with the jig one is hoping to leave. So I don't really see where this method is less of a trial. In any case I could get a razor sharp bevel on e Blue Chip chisel rubbing it on my pants. I do like his vids, and I enjoy watching an approach like this that I could us on my English mortise chisels that come with convex bevels in any case.

[David Weaver]

No, hollow grind. If I need a tool with a convex bevel, then I'll have one. I don't want to be spending that much time sharpening a chisel every time one needs to be sharpened.

[Chris Griggs]

I'm an "if it works, work it" kinda guy and don't want to be a naysayer here but...

I guess I don't really understand the advantage of this method. Since this is meant to be quick why bother to sharpen that hole bevel convex, your just honing a bunch of steel that doesn't' impact the cutting edge? I understand the hole down and dirty, stop obsessing over unnecessary precision mindset, but I think think is a quicker easier way to have this approach freehand.

That is to freehand micro/secondary bevels. I think there might be a misconception that freehanding secondary bevels is about trying to match and maintain a perfect angle on a tiny bevel since that's how micro bevels are thought of when using a jig. In reality, when freehanding, a secondary bevel is quick, dirty, and though somewhat imprecise, very effective. This is because you are not actually worried about perfectly matching the exact micro bevel every time. Rather you are using the primary bevel as a reference for a starting point and then just lifting up "ever so slightly". If you don't match it exactly every single time its not a huge deal because it's such a small area it tends to reset itself anyway. The reality is, as the secondary bevel grows you are likely end up creating a mini convex bevel anyway, and if it grows too big and too imprecise you just regrind - or if you want let it stay be a little convex. So anyway, I guess what I'm questioning most here is the idea of deliberately making the entire bevel convex. It seems to me that a convex bevel is just an infinite series of micro bevels ever increasing in steepness so if your going to do the hole quick and dirty thing, why not just focus on the steel that matters.

Personally, I prefer to hone on a single, preferably hollow ground bevel. However, if over time I've gotten my primary bevel out of whack and don't feel like re grinding I will lift up slightly and create a secondary bevel to hone on until I get back to the grinder.

Anyway, here's a link to ALF honing using the method I'm talking about. The secondary bevel is not what i typically do, but it is the quickest, easiest way I personally have used to freehand a very sharp edge.

At the end of the day I don't care how anyone sharpens their tools. I haven't tried a convex bevel and honestly don't plan too, but to be clear I'm not criticizing anyone who has found this method to be effective. Again, if it works for you, then work it. I just happen to think there might be an even quicker and easier down and dirty method of honing.

[David Weaver]

I knew it was going to be the bird chirp video, Chris!

Alf should do children's audiobooks. I could listen to her talk all day.

[Chris Griggs]

I knew it was going to be the bird chirp video, Chris!

Alf should do children's audiobooks. I could listen to her talk all day.

That made me crack up - mainly because I whole heartily agree. Personally, I'd buy and listen to the entire series of "ALF reads Harry Potter"