Rigid Jointer

[Brent Romero]

Cyrus,

That is exactly the plan. Just spoke to the guy and he claims that he is the original owner and has had it for 2 years. Bought it, planed a little cypress and never used it again. Thinking about the drive home with this thing in my truck and it being topheavy, is the base of the unit easily removeable so that I can lower the center of gravity for the ride home? Rather than strap it completely assembled and end up having a mishap.

Thanks

[frank shic]

anyone have any good ideas on how to close up that "safety" gap underneath the guard? it's irritating when you're face jointing material that's less than 3/4"! otherwise it's served me well for the last six years

[Mike Cross]

"What did these sell for new at HD before the blowout price? "



When I purchased mine, the price was $429.00, which was the regular price before they started blowing them out.

Mike

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Cyrus,

That is exactly the plan. Just spoke to the guy and he claims that he is the original owner and has had it for 2 years. Bought it, planed a little cypress and never used it again. Thinking about the drive home with this thing in my truck and it being topheavy, is the base of the unit easily removeable so that I can lower the center of gravity for the ride home? Rather than strap it completely assembled and end up having a mishap.

Thanks

Brent (sorry for the "Brian"),

Yes you can unbolt the saw from the stand. But you should also be able to remove the fence and lay the joint on its back. Unless you have a bumpy ride home, you should have no problems. Also, you may want to support/lift the base while on its back. You will see what I am talking about when you take a look. Still, it would not hurt to take a socket set (metric) in case you want to unbolt it.

To remove the rust, Scotchbrite and WD-40 work well. Whatever you do, just make sure to wax (Johnson's Paste Wax) it when it is clean so it will not rust again.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

anyone have any good ideas on how to close up that "safety" gap underneath the guard? it's irritating when you're face jointing material that's less than 3/4"! otherwise it's served me well for the last six years

I put a piece of plexigless/lexan on the face of the gaurd. I also drove in the pin that limits the width of a board you can joint. However, jointing less than 3/4" can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing - Frank, this is more for the OP.

[Mark Ashmeade]

Mine was a fine machine for what it was (i.e. a short bed 6" jointer). Sold it for $275 about 6-8 months ago.

If I'm buying used machines, then I'll look to get one for no more than 50% of what I could have got a new one for. If I'm selling one, I look to sell it for what it's worth. The two aren't the same, and in between lies risk and profit.

[Brent Romero]

Mine was a fine machine for what it was (i.e. a short bed 6" jointer). Sold it for $275 about 6-8 months ago.

If I'm buying used machines, then I'll look to get one for no more than 50% of what I could have got a new one for. If I'm selling one, I look to sell it for what it's worth. The two aren't the same, and in between lies risk and profit.

A true businessman......buy low and sell high....my motto

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I like mine. The "original" retail price varies as noted. I think 200 would be a fair price, not great or bad.

For the rust, use "Barkeepers Friend" and WD-40 or similar. BKF is a Ajax/Comet type cleanser. Works great at removing surface rust. You should be able to find at the BORG.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Thinking about the drive home with this thing in my truck and it being topheavy, is the base of the unit easily removeable so that I can lower the center of gravity for the ride home?

I bought the floor sample & it was all assembled. I bought a half sheet of 1/2" ply @ the same time. I put the 1/2" ply behind the jointer and between it and the back of the van. We just tilted the whole thing back and slid the ply/jointer into the back of the van on it's back.
When I got it home, my wife and I just slid the ply out with the jointer on top until it was out far enough to tip.
No muss - no fuss.
Once I got it out and in the driveway, I could "walk" it the 20 or so feet into the garage by lifting one end and pivoting it, then doing the same lift/pivot on the other end, and so on.

Take along a 4'x4' piece of ply and you should be able to just lay it on that on it's back and slide it in and out of the back of your truck.

[Tim Thomas]

Brent, I bought a jointer just like that at a yard sale several years ago. It was in similar shape, but it cleaned up easily and works great. Check out this old thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...escue-Complete

All I used to clean it was WD-40, green Scotch Brite pads, and some 400 and 600 grit sandpaper for really rough areas. The jointer is great, and for the price there is no way I could beat it. I just recently used it to joint some long pieces of hard maple that were 5 and 1/2 inches wide, and it handled that with no problem. There is plenty of power for the capacity I think. The only limitations are the width of the cutter and the length of the bed, but that's what you get with a 6 inch jointer. This is one of my favorite tools in the shop, and I haven't had to do any work on it since the original restoration. I do recommend waxing the beds on occasion, it really makes the wood slide easier.

I have the Ridgid planer too, which I bought new, and I also recommend that. In fact I own several Ridgid tools (belt sander, hammer drill, etc.) and I've been happy with all of them.

[Jerome Hanby]

That Ridgid planer is a real workhorse. I love fine. If I didn't already have an old Boice Crane 6" jointer, I'd have already grabbed one of the Ridgid models. One of these days I'm just going to stop on the way home from work and nab one of their OSS units!

[Myk Rian]

WD-40 is not intended as a rust remover, it is a Water Dis-placer. I use Bar Keepers Friend. Then furniture paste wax after that.

[frank shic]

thanks for the tip, cyrus! maybe i'll do that... after i finish rebuilding my raised panel door routing station... or after i finish refinishing the plantation shutter... or the bathroom remodel lol

[Brent Romero]

WD-40 is not intended as a rust remover, it is a Water Dis-placer. I use Bar Keepers Friend. Then furniture paste wax after that.

You are so right about that. I will keep in mind never to combine those two. The laxative and sleeping pills that is.

[Brent Romero]

Update: Bought it for a $200 dollar bill. As I suspected, aside from the surface rust, the only thing between it and new is a layer of sawdust. With a little elbow grease it will be looking like new. The only thing is the cutter head has a little more rust than I was hoping for...but not real bad. Not sure if I want to remove it to clean the rust...or just remove the blades so that I can massage the rust off of it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks