Inlay banding router bit?

[Matthew Joe]

I have a curved edge table top, and I need to route a shallow channel to accept inlay banding on the edge of the table top, as is common in federal style pieces. Presumably, I need a really shallow slot cutting type bit with a bearing that can be guided along the table edge and that will cut a channel of the right width (or smaller w/ multiple passes). I haven't been able to find one. Any sources for such a router bit, or alternative techniques to cut the channel?

If the table edge were straight, I'd just use a slot cutting bit with a router edge guide. The curve makes things more difficult.

Thanks!

[Jim Rimmer]

How wide is your band? This might work but is 1/2"
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v122-0622

This is an edge banding set but if you put a larger bearing on it, maybe it would work. Dioesn't give the groove size (and pretty pricey).
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v190-2012

[Prashun Patel]

To use a slot cutting bit, you will have to ride the edge of the table. That'll be hard to do with accuracy. Further, around the curve (and this is hard to explain without pix) the slot will cut too wide. That's because the slot cuts a straight line - even if you were able to hold the router perfectly tangential to the curve (another issue, requiring a curved base or very skilled hands.

One way to do it is to use a straight bit and and edge guide (riding the router on the face of the table). You'll have to use a very narrow bit, though.

If you want the most delicate of lines (< 1/8") you should consider making or buying a scratch stock. There's a learning curve with these (I'm at the start of it) but I can tell you that if you've used scrapers before, the curve's not too steep. Takes some practice, but it's cheap and really opens up some creative possibilities including beading. It's also IMHO easier to do stopped routing.

Last, I'm sure a router or plow plane with an appropriate blade can do this too.

[Matthew Joe]

Jim - I haven't made the banding yet, but I believe that the table top is only 5/8" or so, so 1/2" is probably too wide. Thanks for the suggestion, though...the bit itself looks to be the right shape.

Prashun - Sorry I wasn't clearer in my message. The banding goes on the edge of the table, not the table top, so you would ride the table top with a slot cutter instead of the table edge. Here is an example of a table with a curved edge and inlay banding (just pulled it from Google...not mine): http://www.craigthomaswhite.com/furn...console-table/

[Bill Huber]

Do you have a router table?
If I was going to try this I would use my router table and try a rabbet bit with a bearing.
Just a thought, I have never done anything like that.

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/49340.html

[john bateman]

Why can't you just buy a slot cutting bit of your liking and then replace the bearing with one that will give the depth of cut you need?
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops..._guides_anchor

[Randy Henry]

There are several different sizes of rabbet bits available with bearings, just find the right one for your banding. To get the bearing to ride securely is to make another "top" of of ply/mdf, with the same outside edge profile (sanded) and use double sided tape and put it on the bottom of your good top. This will be the surface your bearing follows to give you a stable edge surface. Also with this, you can adjust the bit up or down to give yourself the desired width of the cut.

[Walter Plummer]

Here is a link. http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5038-fac...-bearings.aspx You said 1/2" is to tall but further down there is also bearings to get a slot cutter to do what you want.

[Matthew Joe]

Great suggestions--I'll chew through these links and I'm sure I will find something that works. Thanks all!

[Craig Thomas White]

Hello.

Maybe I can help explain that table - I built it.

An MDF template was used to layout the shape of the top and then re-used as a router guide for the inlay. The template is secured with clamps. The router bit has a 1/4" cutter (1/4" tall cut) with an oversized bearing installed to keep the cutting depth to 1/8". I recommend scoring the edges of your cut first. A tite-mark or similar tool works well here. Scoring prevents tear-out. The inlay itself is just a hair taller than the recess, for a tight fit, and at least 1/32" proud. When the glue has fully cured, you can trim the inlay flush. I use a card scraper.

Inlay along the edges of the drawer front and aprons was also done with a router fitted with a bearing bit (and a steady hand). Remember to score first. You could do these inlays on a table, if you prefer.

Inlaid bandings (on the legs) and the draw-front ellipse were done with good old fashioned hand tools.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me. Cheers!

- Craig

** I found this thread by way of my web software which lists referring websites, etc.

http://www.craigthomaswhite.com/furniture/serpentine-console-table/[/URL]

[Alan Lightstone]

Nice table Craig.

[Matthew Joe]

Thanks, Craig (and nice table!). I ended up using a technique similar to the one you describe--i.e. used the template that I used to make the shape itself to guide a rabbet bit with the appropriate offset. So simple and yet eluded me for a while. Randy touched on this technique above, as well.

Here is a picture of my table's apron with the (shopmade) inlay banding installed. Haven't had much time to work on this project since February, unfortunately...

DSLR 2012-03-31 005.jpg

[Craig Thomas White]

Beautiful banding, Matthew. Looking forward to seeing the completed table. Whenever that may be...

[Richard Wolf]

Craig, welcome to Saw Mill Creek, Very impressive portfolio.