Finish/glue cabinet question

[David Rose]

I'm planning a walnut cabinet to hold glue and finish that can't freeze in the shop. Dimensions of the cabinet are about 46" high and 28" wide. It will sit behind the gara... shop entry door from the house.

If I use dual doors as planned, they will be 11 1/2" wide by 37" high with two raised panels each and flush mounted to the cabinet. That is a tall door! Using pretty plain wood, am I likely to run into warping problems or other problems? This is the first time I've tried this tall a door. The drawing that looks best (to me so far) has 2" stiles with rails progressing by 1/4" each going down.

Would 4 hinges per door be better than 3?

I really don't won't to hang and fit 4 doors for this, unless there are major advantages.

David

[Paul Dwight]

Two doors ought to work fine. I'd probably use quartersawn stock for the rails and stiles, though, for an extra margin of protection against warpage. Save the flatsawn stuff with the interesting figure for the panels and keep them relatively thin (thinner than the rails/stiles, anyway) and you should be happy with the result. Good luck! -- Paul

[Steve Clardy]

and if you have a small amount of twist in the doors, you can adjust it out with the hinges. I only use two hinges per door up too 36" lenghth. After that, 3 hinges. Steve

[David Rose]

for the tips! It sounds workable.

I'd not thought of using Euro hinges to take out a little twist. I don't know if there will be any yet, but... ;-)

David

[Steve Clardy]

I'd not thought of using Euro hinges to take out a little twist. I don't know if there will be any yet, but... ;-)

David

The euro hinges are the only way to go. I'd be hard pressed to use a face mount hinge again. The euro cup hinges are so workable. Adjustable for twist, door gap.
All you need to get started with them is a drill press and a 35mm hinge bit. One disadvantage is that you cannot get carried away with an outside profile on the door hinge. The cup hinge mounts 1/2" deep in the door, approximately 1/8" away from the edge.
I use the one piece hinge, not the two piece that lets you unclip and remove the door.
Steve

[David Rose]

That will fit in nicely with the Leigh FMT that Dave Arbuckle has just about sold me. If the funds come together quickly that is.

I always try to wait for a good "excuse" to place an order...

David

[Steve Clardy]

Easy to deal with. I ordered some time ago and 1 item was wrong size. I emailed them and they sent it right out. Didn't want the wrong one back, said to keep it, too much hassle returning it. Very happy with their products. They have some unusual stuff also that no one else carries. Steve

[Jim Baker]

I've made doors up to 6 feet tall with only very minor warping problems. I would typically use 3 hinges on a door of that size.

[David Rose]

while I am in the middle of a post, I'm going to send them where I should have long ago.

I don't know which Euro hinge would be applicable to a post frame and leg case. Does the "frame hinge" work here? I was also waiting and waiting and ... for the hinge PDF to load from Blum. Just ticked... I'll get over it.

David

[Steve Clardy]

I get so irritated at my IP sometimes. Cut me off right in the middle of something.

If you are building flush inset doors, you need to get that type of hinge. If you use overlay doors, say 1/2, use 1/2 overlay hinges.
Steve

[David Rose]

in the catalog is all I've seen so far. The door is inset, but with a post instead of the side of the case. The insets they show are generally for case sides. They look too deep (going from the front to the rear) to work on a 2" post. They also list a face frame model, I think it is a 110 degree model, that looks like it *might* work. I'll have to do more homework on application.

Never could get Blum's PDF to load. I poke around for more info.

Thanks

David

[David Rose]

unsupporting to me in my drawing. I believe you are right.

David