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Thread: Staining Advice Question

  1. #1

    Staining Advice Question

    Hello. I have an old gateleg dropleaf table that I'd like to refinish and I'd like some advice please on staining it. The top is veneer mahogany and is no problem. The problem is the legs. They are turned with some places un-turned in a style that I think would be called Jacobean. The wood I am unsure of, but I would guess maybe birch. It is not mahogany and would be a common I would think utilitarian inexpensive wood.

    Originally a toner was used on them and was acceptable, but I don't have the ability of using a toner. I would like to get an even stain and one that would be close to the top, but wouldn't have to be a perfect match. I'm thinking a water base dye satin, assuming I could get an even color by applying more stain. The top I could use a pigment or dye stain. The problem with the legs is getting a good even color. And I wouldn't be able to sand them to even up the smoothness, it would take way too much time.

    Would you have a suggestion for a dye stain? I'm slightly familiar with Lockwood, but I see that Jeff Jewitt has a line out and that the powder is supposed to make more stain. Does anyone also have a suggestion for a good reddish mahogany or an orangeish mahogany? Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Orange Park, FL
    Posts
    1,118
    To make dye/stain come out without blotching or darker in end grain in soft woods I make a sizing from hide glue. I think it it 2 oz in a quart of warm water. Let it disolve and heat it up to around +140d. The with a brush wipe it on the item(s) to be stained, Let it dry about 24 hrs. Then lightly sand it with around 150 grit with the grain.
    My wife and I have had great results with this method. You could Google "Hide gllue sizing" and get the exact mix ratio. I also believe Hiland Woodworking has it premixed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    George,

    How about a picture? Matching colors or giving color advice using words is not practical. Those are the marketing guys idea of a color or shade. Stripper is MUCH better to remove the old then sanding the old finish off the surface.

    Toners are not difficult to use. There are several aerosol ready-made lacquer based dye toners available. Pigment toners tend to mask the grain dye toners don't.
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 02-13-2012 at 11:14 PM. Reason: added toner info
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
    I was going to use stripper. You know, a spray can toner might be a good idea. Thanks.

    I've looked at picures of the Lockwood colors and they are not too helpful to see the least, maybe just a rough guide.

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