Finishes that won't combust

[Shaun Mahood]

My workshop is in a garage attached to my house, and if a fire started there it would block the only stairway and very quickly reach our bedrooms. Combining this with a slightly forgetful nature and generally scattered mindset, I need to find some finishes that are not going to spontaneously combust, even if left in a heap. That is basically the only requirement, woodworking is a hobby and I'm not willing to risk the safety of my family, no matter how manageable the risk is.

Any ideas? I've bought some beeswax polish for tool handles, but I'm pretty sure that won't work for everything.

[John Coloccia]

My workshop is in a garage attached to my house, and if a fire started there it would block the only stairway and very quickly reach our bedrooms. Combining this with a slightly forgetful nature and generally scattered mindset, I need to find some finishes that are not going to spontaneously combust, even if left in a heap. That is basically the only requirement, woodworking is a hobby and I'm not willing to risk the safety of my family, no matter how manageable the risk is.

Any ideas? I've bought some beeswax polish for tool handles, but I'm pretty sure that won't work for everything.

Stay away from any drying oil. Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, TruOil, etc. I suppose this would include the local favorite Waterlox, as that's a Tung Oil finish. Only drying oil finishes will spontaneously combust because they give off heat as they "dry"...they're really reacting with air to cure.

But it shouldn't be a problem, and you really don't want to miss out on Waterlox The rags are easy enough to dispose of safely. If you have a bucket of water, you can toss them in there temporarily. What I do is wet them and then lay them on the ground outside my shop. When dry (they'll stiffen up), I toss them. There's nothing to it and nothing to be afraid of. Just don't toss them in a big pile after finishing your new dining room set.

Of course, it's a little confusing because the oils we're talking about are essentially vegetable or modified vegetable oils. There's another big class of oil finishes that are hydrocarbon based, i.e. mineral spirits. This is what you get when you use an oil stain, an oil based polyurethane, and things like that. They are certainly flammable, but they will not spontaneously combust, though I suspect that many spontaneous combustion incidents have been triggered by tossing a mineral spirits soaked rag on a pile of already smoldering drying oil rags. Also, it's not uncommon for mineral spirits to be an ingredient in a drying oil finish.

If you're ever in doubt, read the MSDS for the product that you're interested in.

[Conrad Fiore]

Or you can opt for all waterborne finishes and not worry at all.

[Dave Gaul]

Or you can opt for all waterborne finishes and not worry at all.

+1 on that if you are that concerned. This can also lead you into the world of spraying without needing an explosion proof setup.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I suppose this would include the local favorite Waterlox, as that's a Tung Oil finish.

Waterlox Original is an oil based varnish, not a "Tung Oil Finish" like Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It's a varnish just the same as any other varnish or poly varnish except it's made with tung oil instead of the linseed oil used for many other varnishes and poly varnishes. It's not any more subject to spontaneous combustion than any other varnish. Linseed oil or boiled linseed oil is the problem oil. It dries a lot faster than tung oil therefore creates more heat.

The real dangers are with oil/varnish mixtures like Danish Oil, Minwax Tung Oil Finish or a homemade concoction using a drying oil and varnish. Even in and of themselves, oil/varnish mixtures are not the problem. The problem is rags used to apply or wipe off the excess of these finishes. If these rags are wadded up and/or put in a closely confined space (garbage can) while still wet, they will generate heat as they dry and cure. If the rags are opened up and spread out or hung from a clothes line or fence until they are dry and stiff, they can be safely discarded in the normal garbage.

The best rule is to treat any wipers used with or on oil based finish as dangerous and spread them out to dry. For more complete safety use only waterbase or waterborne finishes.

[Scott Holmes]

Shaun,

you are correct wax will not be a suitable finsh for much of anything.

I have used more differnt types and brands of finish than I care to count. I ALWAYS lay the rag (cloth or paper) out over the edge of the trash can or on the concrete floor. Then discard when it's dry.

As stated linseed oil and oil/varnish blends are the most likely to cause a problem.

[Jim Becker]

Water borne finishes are a good choice relative to this concern. As is wax. Shellac is low risk for spontaneous combustion since the alcohol flashes off very quickly and the product dries to the touch in only a few minutes.

[Shaun Mahood]

Any recommendations for a good waterborne finish that I can wipe on?

[Jim Becker]

Any recommendations for a good waterborne finish that I can wipe on?

Wiping on a water borne finish is likely going to be difficult...they dry too fast. You'd be much better learning how to pad on shellac if that's the application method you prefer. Some water borne finishes can be applied with a brush, however.

[Joe Dowling Jr]

Any recommendations for a good waterborne finish that I can wipe on?

+1 For all the finish manufacturers out there that read this forum, we are patiently waiting for this product. Thanks in advance.

[Howard Acheson]

+1 For all the finish manufacturers out there that read this forum, we are patiently waiting for this product. Thanks in advance.

The Minwax Wipe-on waterborne poly is the only one I know of. I've not used it so I have no first hand knowledge.

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...ed-wipeon-poly

[Joe Dowling Jr]

The Minwax Wipe-on waterborne poly is the only one I know of. I've not used it so I have no first hand knowledge.

www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-water-based-wipeon-poly

Thanks for the reply. Has anyone used this? I've been liking the seal-a-cell/ arm-r-seal look, and am currently using the maloof oil/poly on a small maple bookcase, also nice. What I don't care for are the fumes. The waterlox look is a little to thick to me. (the fumes way to much). Any waterborne out there with the look of arm-r-seal?
Thanks.

[Howard Acheson]

Waterborne and oil based solvent finishes are two different animals. They have very different chemical compositions. In general they handle differently when applying them and they look different when they are dry. One is not a direct substitute for the other. You really have to try both and see which one is appropriate for a specific application.