Wooden Machinist's chest WIP thread

[John L Sanford]

Hey folks, I'm new here.

I started a thread over in the General forum looking for walnut; or just advice on how to get it and what I have to do with it once I get it. Here is that thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...inist-s-chestI

I figured it would be best to start a thread here detailing the design and build of it, before that thread turns into that type of thing. I think this forum is more suited for a build type thread. I've been modeling the chest in Solidworks to better understand how it all goes together. I have a set of plans I got online, but I am not following them exactly to the letter. I have changed a few minor things. This is what I have so far:

This picture shows the bottom (which is white). I had originally planned to do this part out of plywood or some other wood that isn't so expensive, but I feel like now I may not be able to because I am having trouble hiding the edges on all four sides. You can also see the two sides, the bottom lower panel, and the two vertical styles. Pay no attention to the grain lines. They are not intended to reflect the way the finished real project will be. Solidowrks applies realistic looking graphics, but I haven't figured out how to orientate the grain lines on the individual pieces.


Here I have added the center piece, the upper rear panel, and the notch cut in all three that will hold the piece that will be the floor or bottom of the main compartment.


Another view

[John L Sanford]

I got some work done to the model today. I added the floor or bottom to the upper compartment, the front rail that spans across the front, and the hoizontal and vertical drawer dividers.

[Gary Kman]

I can't see the corner joints working on plywood and panels of solid wood 30" wide would change width so much with changes in humidity the desk would be too low to use in winter and too high in summer.

[John L Sanford]

I can't see the corner joints working on plywood and panels of solid wood 30" wide would change width so much with changes in humidity the desk would be too low to use in winter and too high in summer.

Gary, The actual outside dimensions are 26" wide, 16" tall, and 10.5" deep. As I stated before, I was hoping to use plywood for the bottom, but I can't figure out how to make the joints work where the whole thing is covered. I will probably end up using walnut there too. Your response is just the kind of thing I will need along the way, because this will be my first woodworking project that is this involved. I have done some little projects and other bigger projects, but nothing that has to be nice. This will be a true test.

[Joe Hillmann]

Here is a small machinist chest that I built (All the box joints were cut on a laser but could easily be replaced with hand cut dovetails)
Outside of the box. That is a one foot rule to show size.
Toolbox 001.jpg
Box with lid open you can see the inside of the handles which I wanted to build without sticking out so they can be packed in closer together(I have 4 or 5 of theese)
Toolbox 002.jpg
The handle on the side
Toolbox 003.jpg
With a few drawers open
Toolbox 004.jpg
The back side. You can see the wooden hinges. If I planned it for heavy use I would put about 20 wooden hinges on it or use metal hinges.
Toolbox 005.jpg

I plan to do an inlay on the lid and stain and varnish it nicely.

[John L Sanford]

That's some really nice stuff Joe. I have to admit, I didn't know wood could be cut on a laser.

[Kent A Bathurst]

This picture shows the bottom (which is white). I had originally planned to do this part out of plywood or some other wood that isn't so expensive, but I feel like now I may not be able to because I am having trouble hiding the edges on all four sides.

Pay no attention to the grain lines. They are not intended to reflect the way the finished real project will be. Solidowrks applies realistic looking graphics, but I haven't figured out how to orientate the grain lines on the individual pieces.

Point 2 first: If you orient the grain as shown in the sketch, then you have eliminated all issues related to wood expansion except for the intermediate shelf. And - there are a variety of ways to deal with the expansion of that one section, ranging from simple to complicated. The simple way is to use dados and rabbets, and glue only the center 2" - 3", letting the front and back of the shelf expand away from the center.

Point 1 next: If you use solid wood for this, you have added a second piece whose expansion you have to address. Again - there is a way to do it, but that would also work with plywood. You show dado-and-rabbet joints at the front case corners. You just need to use that same approach for the bottom on all 4 sides - the front and back would be extended as far down as the sides are, and you put dados all the way around, and the plywood bottom has rabbets all the way around. With plywood, you get the benefit of being able to glue those joints on all 4 faces, which adds strength and rigidity. With solid wood, you can't - it has to float to allow for expansion.

EDIT: Oooops. I missed the upper shelf. It has to be done in the same manner as the intermediate shelf.

[Gary Kman]

To keep the theory simple an applicable to any project, changes in humidity;
- have very little effect on plywood and medium density fiberboard
- have little or any effect on the length of solid wood
- have the most effect across flat sawn boards (I've seen a 1/4" width change in a hundred year old 12" wide door panel.
- somewhat less in quarter sawn boards depending on species.
Some species have such a large difference of coefficient across the growth rings vs 90* to them that the wood is destroyed during drying.

Look at how ingenious a panel door is constructed to take all this into account.

[John L Sanford]

Thank you for all of the great suggestions and help. I'm kind of starting to worry about the wood movement issues. It will be hard enough to cut all the joints and special cuts to get this thing right. I feel like I can do it with guidance though. Here are some more progress pics. I've added the drawer runners and adjusted some stuff.

[John L Sanford]

Today I worked on the drawers a little bit. They are assemblies themselves and difficult as well. I did the drawers in the very top, which are 1.5" tall, and then the four underneath those which are 1" tall. Note the color difference in the drawer fronts. I want to use curly maple here. Solidworks does a poor job of depicting maple, other than to just make it look like a lighter colored wood. I also designed the rest of the drawers with oak. This is a cost saving measure. I'm sure that baltic birch plywood would work here too. None of the wood choices are set in stone. I can change that with the click of a mouse, lol.





The upper compartment bottom / floor has been set to translucent here, so you can see the drawers underneath. I know some of the joints and orientation of grain may not make sense, but let me finish the model and then I will start tweaking it based on you all's suggestions.

Sill left to do are the 2.5" tall drawers that go under the ones I did today, and then two longer drawers on the bottom, and the center drawer. Also left to do is the cover for the front, and the lid.

Thanks for staying tuned.

[John L Sanford]

All Drawers are done, although I think I am going to change the orientation of them a little bit.

[Marty Paulus]

Great job so far. I am looking to build a tool box as well so I am watching you progress for ideas. Keep up the great work and keep us up on the progress.

[frank shic]

love the inlay

[John L Sanford]

I changed a few things around. I moved the smaller 1" drawers up above the 1.5" drawers that were originally on top. Just seems more correct to go from smallest to largest. I stll may do away with the handbook drawer and put two small drawers in its place.

The top is added in this pic, but not opened.

[John L Sanford]

Final picsThis is the box completely closed. The front cover is in place.