A way to hold small pieces

[Ted Evans]

To hold small pieces, I normally would use a vac system for cleanup, sanding and rubbing out the finish. A situation arose where the vac was not an option so the following pics are what I came up with and they seem to meet my needs.

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Three pieces with #2 MT, all three have a .625 tenon, one of which has a .25 tenon also. On one, the end of the .625 tenon has a 45 degree counter bore used for aligning .25 stubs.


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This setup is for holding a base or lid.


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In this case, it is a lid that has a .25 hole which fits over the .25 tenon, the tailstock piece is turned to the contour of the bottom of the lid and serves to help center and assist in the lid running true. Light machining can be done in this configuration if needed. I will sand the top of the lid at this time.


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The tailstock is backed away and now the bottom of the piece can be sanded.

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This setup is for the cup.

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The MDF is turned to fit snug in the cup and the .25 tenon on the bottom of the cup is centered using the counter bore of the tailstock piece.

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Light machining and sanding can be performed with this setup.

I forgot to get a picture showing how I sand the inside of the cup. For that, I use a .25 collet chuck to hold the .25 tenon on the bottom of the cup and place the MDF piece in the the tailstock to center the cup, then back the tailstock out to sand the inside.

I have found these three pieces to be very handy and use them frequently. There are times when they are quicker and easier to use than the vac chucks. They are turned from 6061 aluminum but do not see why a good dense hardwood would not work also.

One note, these only work on the live centers that accept a #2 MT, such as the Nova.

[John Keeton]

Very innovative, Ted! Did you turn the #MT tapers on your wood lathe? And, what did you use as a template for getting the correct taper? I would think it would need to be very accurate to avoid an off center situation.

[Ted Evans]

Very innovative, Ted! Did you turn the #MT tapers on your wood lathe? And, what did you use as a template for getting the correct taper? I would think it would need to be very accurate to avoid an off center situation.

They were turned using an old Rockwell 10" metal lathe and I used a very hi-tech and rather complex formula for setting the angle for the taper. A dial indicator was placed on the compound slide with a #2 center placed between centers of the lathe. Small adjustments were made with the compound slide until there was no deflection of the gauge over the length of the taper.

They fit the tailstock of the metal lathe perfectly but required a little adjustment with a file to fit snug in the Nova live center on the wood lathe.

[Michael Mills]

Those look really slick.
I have turned a lot of wood centers for my Nova but nothing in aluminum. I have turned brass for ferrules with HSS. Do you think using a carbide cutter very carefully, that they can be turned on a regular wood lathe? Seems several people have mentioned that the round cutter inserts for tools are actually made for cutting aluminum.

[James Combs]

Those look really slick.
I have turned a lot of wood centers for my Nova but nothing in aluminum. I have turned brass for ferrules with HSS. Do you think using a carbide cutter very carefully, that they can be turned on a regular wood lathe? Seems several people have mentioned that the round cutter inserts for tools are actually made for cutting aluminum.

I cut/turn aluminum fairly regularly on my wood lathe using both HSS and carbide tipped tools with no problems. Also brass and copper. Have also turned some steel with the carbide tipped tools as in truing up my scroll chucks. Just take it easy and if tuning a wood and metal laminated item avoid catches at all cost or your item will disassemble, DAMHIKT.

Edit: Here is an example of wood/aluminum laminate with some brass as well. Turned using HSS(roughing) and Carbide(finishing).

[Ted Evans]

Yes Michael, as James said, any carbon tool steel cutter can be used to machine aluminum, brass or even steel, carbide is not necessary. Example, most twist drill bits for drilling steel are made from carbon tool steel. Any of your wood turning tools can be used on metals using very light cuts. The primary difference, IMO, is the angle of grind on the cutters meant for metal cutting, there is much more support for the cutting edge. Something like 5 degrees for metal but much higher for wood. Which translates into the woodcutters loosing the edge much quicker if used on metals. I would recommend slow feed and light cuts on aluminum with relatively high RPM on the wood lathe. My opinions only, not necessarily supported by management.