Need a little framing advice

[Brian Effinger]

Is the guy an architect or engineer? Let us know what he says. Since you said you haven't had the best experience with engineers, I, or someone here, can help you determine if they are full of it or not.

BTW, I'm not an engineer, only a lowly architect.

[phil harold]

I know this isn't exactly a woodworking question but I'm an optimist.


Now, what's on top of the top plate. In this case, it's an upstairs closet wall that is supporting roof rafters. So our stud (ok, three studs) is supporting a rafter. In this case, it's supporting two rafters that are sistered together.

To my question: Can I remove the three studs, put in a double 2x6 header and a couple of jack studs? The rafter supports the roof and goes right through the peak of an intersecting roof. It's a pretty important rafter.

How big of a door?
I am a fan of overkill in framing remodel situations
If it was my house and I needed a 3-0 door I would
strap the joint
Install an 1.75 x 9.5 lvl that extends 2 studs past the opening on either side with what I call laser lags add jacks under the lvl
then remove triple stud
add 2x6 header and jacks
block sheath and turn the upper closet wall into a box beam

it is over kill but it transfers the weight to more than one spot
There has been now mention of footings under this wall...

without pictures this what I wood do in my house

is the closet wall above his tripled stud aligned with each other or perpendicular?

without actually seeing it all we do is assume
and you know what happens when we a assume?!?!!


oh yea and engineer my be cheaper

[Justin Jump]

I agree with all the comments, hire an engineer, and go overkill......

However, if it were my house, I would probably put in a header, as shown in my attachment.

Build a temporary wall to distribute the load while you cut out the exisiting.

Do you have 8' foot ceilings, then if you do, you have plenty of room to put in a double 2x10 header, with a 1/2" piece of plywood sandwiched in between, glued and screwed, or glued and nailed together.

For a 30" door, you will need a rough opening 32" x 80", so even at 8' ceilings, you'll need to add some framing to get to the 82" r.o.

If you dont have 8' ceilings, plan it out, but I wouldnt go below a 2x8 doubled header.

The 2x10 or 2x8 doubled header with the 1/2" plywood is done to get to the same dimension as a 2x4 - 3 1/2".....if you have 2x6 construction, then you need to add to it to get to the same thickness - 5 1/2"......

If you're understanding all of this, then you know what to do, if not, hire a framer, he/she should be able to accomplish this for you in less than a day.....

[Justin Jump]

just a small correction - your r.o. would need to be 32" x 82", not 80".....

[Justin Jump]

sorry - just saw your note on 6' to the top plate.....thats a really short door, even with a 2x6 header.......

Looks like your going outside to get to your shop!

[David Sharp]

The two rafters may be sistered so the decking would have something to nail to. You might consider using steel for the header or in the header to make up the height issue.

[Mike De Luca]

A picture would be helpful...

[Roger Feeley]

Thanks to everybody. I called a very experienced handyman friend and he pointed out that it was easy to wiggle all three studs I was worried about and therefore, they weren't carrying much weight. I had the header made, a saw, framing nailer and stud material handy. 10 minutes later the job was done.

I worry too much.

[Sam Murdoch]

Thanks to everybody. I called a very experienced handyman friend and he pointed out that it was easy to wiggle all three studs I was worried about and therefore, they weren't carrying much weight. I had the header made, a saw, framing nailer and stud material handy. 10 minutes later the job was done.

I worry too much.

Yikes, we just had to be there

[Phil Maddox]

A double 2x6 would almost never be strong enough for a load bearing wall. I wouldn't worry about the splicing in the plates, if you have the right header, it won't make a difference. The double rafter thing usually means that there is a pretty good load at that point. What is the maximum width of the header you get in this place? You mention 2x6 but I'm not sure that is all the room you have or just what you are used to doing. If you have enough room, like 12", you can get double 2x12 with plywood sandwiched between, that'll carry just about anything. a pair of 1 3/4 microlams would also be sweet.

If the load is severe, the engineer may have you doing something below the jack studs you install to hold up the header. You are transferring the load to them and they may need something directly under them to carry the load to the foundation. Probably not.

Good luck!

[Todd Crawford]

Better than the strap idea would be a 3" steel plate spanning the joint in your double top plate on each side. The moment of inertia on a plate turned on it's side is greater than a plate laying flat. Span the joint 18" in each direction. And use an engineered header (LVL) instead of 2x6's. You'll also want to check to see what your jack studs will be supported by under the floor to make sure the load is transferred correctly.

[Jim Andrew]

Why don't you guys back up a step and think about the location of this opening. It is in the attic. Most of the load of the building would be under the floor, not above the ceiling.