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Thread: Taper jig, has anyone used this one from Rockler?

  1. #1

    Taper jig, has anyone used this one from Rockler?

    This can be used for straightening crooked boards too. Any thoughts on this jig?

    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...lter=taper jig
    Last edited by John Gregory; 02-21-2012 at 11:57 AM. Reason: forgot link
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

  2. #2
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    it'll do the job but you can make one out of scraps as well. the three components would be an auxiliary guide fence, a foot to keep the piece of wood from sliding off and an adjustable screw that you screw into the side to increase the amount of taper. cut the auxiliary fence to the lenth of where you want the taper to BEGIN and you should be good to go. here's a video of the idea:

    http://www.ehow.com/video_4427223_as...table-saw.html

  3. #3
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    I have it. I don't use it very often, but when I do, I think it is great.

    Cheers,

    Chris
    If you only took one trip to the hardware store, you didn't do it right.

  4. #4
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    This is a thread from back in December asking the same information. A few post down you can see the one I made. It is very similar to the Dubby taper jig sold by Peechtree. I actually used it last night - first time in a while. I forgot the excellent control.

    I made mine from parts from Rocler.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ighlight=cyrus

  5. #5
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    I've got the Dubby and it sure is a copy, which means it will work well.

  6. #6
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    i like the hold down idea vs using my fingers to keep the piece of wood tight to the fence and the table saw surface.

  7. #7
    I made one and the big difference in mine over a lot of them is the fact that I use the table saw fence as the guide and not a miter slot. The reason I like this is because I can take any board and straighten the edge of it. With the ones that use the miter slot you are limited to the width of the jig.
    Here is mine, it took all of about 20 min. to make.

    111630807.NsoMCsCN.P5205353.jpg 100580566.dh7wT3Pd.P7225560.jpg 100580568.07lPBApI.P7225562.jpg

  8. #8
    I like Bill's jig a lot. I see the advantages to it. Decisions, decisions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    I made one and the big difference in mine over a lot of them is the fact that I use the table saw fence as the guide and not a miter slot. The reason I like this is because I can take any board and straighten the edge of it. With the ones that use the miter slot you are limited to the width of the jig.
    Here is mine, it took all of about 20 min. to make.

    111630807.NsoMCsCN.P5205353.jpg 100580566.dh7wT3Pd.P7225560.jpg 100580568.07lPBApI.P7225562.jpg
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank shic View Post
    i like the hold down idea vs using my fingers to keep the piece of wood tight to the fence and the table saw surface.
    Instead of fingers use double sided tape.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  10. I have it and when it gets used, it works well.

  11. #11
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    I made one similar to this one and use it to make stars, vases and tapered crosses.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  12. #12
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    lee, i like that idea even better for simplicity especially since i'll most likely be making different size tapering jigs depending on the length of the leg. thanks!

  13. #13
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    It does look like the Dubby, which works very well.

  14. #14
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    Pooler (Savannah), GA
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    Here's the one I built from the plans/video from FWW a while back. Works great!
    http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/wvt115.asp

  15. #15
    Do you guys prefer to cut the taper on the front or the back of the jig?
    21597-02-500.jpg
    It seems like if the clamps slipped at all, the piece would get jammed between the fence and the blade.

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