Inspired by Leigh's "Woodie build off" thread, I am contemplating building a wooden jack plane and I could use some help from the experts here in the Cave.
Most of the planes I have are metal -- I have a couple Japanese wooden body planes, but all of these (except for the LV bevel Up) have a bevel down blade and a companion metal chip breaker. However, it seems to me all of the high end infill planes I lust after but could never afford, only have a single bevel down blade and no chip breaker.
I thought the idea of the chipbreaker was to curl back the shaving just as it comes through the mouth to prevent tear out. Yet as I understand it, one of the chief virtues of these high-end infill planes without chip breakers is their ability to take clean shavings with no tear out even in highly figured woods -- what gives? I have an old Morris infill with a very tight mouth and it has a chip breaker - which only adds to my confusion.
I would like to understand the concept/theory, but my practical question is: if I'm planning to build a wooden jack plane, with a cambered blade for initial surfacing of rough stock, should I get a combination Blade and Chip breaker, or just a single blade? Does the single blade concept only work with infill smoothers with really tight mouths?
I have had great results with Hock blades and chipbreakers in my rehabilitated Stanley metal planes, and that's probably what I would use for the Woodie if I go the blade plus chip breaker route. If I go with a single blade, is there a particular brand/style/thickness of blade I should use?
I very much appreciate the advice and expertise of everyone here. I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere. I've read lots of related threads here but this is still confusing to me.
BTW, attached are some pictures of my first shop built Woodie as sort of a test. I am surprised/thrilled even works! Thanks to Derek Cohen for his tutorial which was very helpful.
All the best, Mike
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